Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2009, Spring: Mojave National Preserve / Day 3: Cornfield Spring Road to Mid Hills Campground via Kelso Depot, Mojave National Preserve 46
Today's goal is to get up in the mountains out of the heat and start enjoying this trip more. 27.9 bicycle miles from my Cornfield Spring Road campsite to Mid Hills campground, rising from 2125 feet at Kelso Depot to 5600 feet.
I eat three Clif bars throughout the day and consume about five litres of water on the way to Mid Hills campground.
- I'm irreversibly awake and sweating as soon the hot sun rises around 6h; by 7h, I'm outside taking a "dry shower"
This morning's luxury is that I have extra water to splurge on non-essentials like rinsing yesterday's salt, sweat and sunscreen off my face and arms. The gravelly earth has almost cooled down from yesterday; it holds heat, holds cold. I'll be passing Kelso Depot in a couple of hours, where I will refill my water supply. - By 9h, the contents of my campsite on Cornfield Spring Road has been decisively packed into my bloated saddlebags
I've eaten my usual dry camp breakfast with hot tea and am pretty much ready to leave. One final glance around to make sure that I'm not leaving anything here... - I start the two-mile trek down Cornfield Spring Road toward Kelso Depot
The small rocks on Cornfield Spring Road make for a rough ride. My bike has decent front suspension, but with the heavy load of food and supplies that I'm carrying, I prefer to walk the 10-bike slowly down some of the gentle downhill here. - Looking behind me up Cornfield Spring Road toward Providence Mountains as I ride down the rough road to Kelso Depot
I still want to check out Cornfield Spring, maybe next year... Right now I just want to escape the valley heat and am looking forward to reaching Mid Hills campground later today, 3400 feet higher. - I pass an ant hill on Cornfield Spring Road
I always try not to camp too close to these, but I did have a few ants crawling around in my tent yesterday despite my efforts. - Dead tree along Cornfield Spring Road near Kelso Depot, with Kelso Dunes in the background
This tree probably died decades ago. Since no trees grow naturally in this area without supplementary water, this must be a relic of an old homestead or some other installation. - My tires hiss gently as I ride through the sand at the bottom of Cornfield Road toward Kelso Depot
Ahead of me are my bicycle tracks from yesterday and the day before. - Just before Kelso Depot and the train tracks, I cross Kelso's back street where sit a few inhabited houses
The Mid Hills, my destination today, lie straight ahead in the distance. The two tiny visible peaks are probably the Eagle Rocks formation near the Mid Hills campground. - Next to Kelso Depot is an old metal structure that was formerly used as Kelso's jail!
It's a bit more like a cage for a big wild animal, but maybe that's intended (and appropriate). - I take a one-hour break and cool down in Kelso Depot's air conditioning before starting the climb up to Mid Hills campground
This lunch counter used to called "The Beanery" back in the old days and just reopened a couple of months ago. I chat a lot with the owner and drink some of his excellent ice-cold homemade tea, and a couple of cans of Coke for the caffeine buzz that I'll need to make it up to Mid Hills in today's heat. Oh, and two bags of potato chips too for some extra salt. - Downstairs in Kelso Depot is a model that shows how Kelso was back in the 1940s
I meant to take a photo of this when I was here yesterday, but somehow forgot to do so. Heat-induced senility. - Also downstairs at Kelso Depot is a gallery featuring work from a new artist-in-residence program by photographer Bob Killen
Really nice work, dramatic, and shows a strong personal vision, despite but the slick commercial edge. I chatted briefly with one of the people who organizes this art-in-residence program back in the Wills Fargo Motel parking lot in Baker. The program is a great idea. - It's already 84 degrees and I've cooled down as much as I can in Kelso Depot's air conditioning; it's time to ride on!
Before leaving, I fill my water supply for the day (four 1.5-litre bottles and my two-litre Camelbak) from the utility closet in Kelso Depot's basement, thanks to the rangers on duty. - I'm officially on my way to Mid Hills now as I leave Kelso Depot and head north on Kelso-Cima Road
I pass a few abandoned buildings as I begin the gentle 14-mile trek up Kelso-Cima to 3700 feet from here at 2125 feet. I seem to have the usual south tailwind here, which should help. - I pass my favourite old house in Kelso, the one with the rounded roof and the cabin in the backyard built of railway ties
I'm not stopping here today, but I did stop here during my 2006 Mojave National Preserve trip to take photos of this old house in Kelso. - Kelso-Cima Road isn't too busy, but traffic is fast and there's no paved shoulder, so cars have to change lanes to pass me
An oncoming motorcyclist and I wave to each other as fellow two-wheeled brethern often do in the desert. I don't "get" intentionally loud motorcycles, but I share with the rest of them a certain minimalist outdoorsiness, since we can't carry all our household comforts on the back of our bikes, motorized or not. - Datura flowers along Kelso-Cima Road
I keep saying that I will plant one of these poisonous (nightshade family) drought-tolerant plants in my garden in San José, but haven't done so yet. - Globe Mine Road; I camped three nights up this road on my 2008 trip
I camped near the end of the middle fork of Globe Mine Road, but the north fork leads much higher up into the majestic Providence Mountains; added to my list of possible future trip destinations. - I pedal slowly upward and take a Clif-bar-and-water-break about an hour later off Kelso-Cima Road along the train tracks
I think this is the same spot where I've stopped on previous trips. I'm close to the road, but almost invisible here, so cars don't see me and don't stop to ask if I need emergency assistance. Straight ahead in the background are the Marl Mountains, and Marl Spring, which I visited in 2006. Just like the last time I was here, a yellowjacket wasp discovers me and buzzes around faithfully, thinking that I might be a food source (I'm not a food source, and I'm ready to kill you if you approach too closely). - The break helps a lot, and I get back on Kelso-Cima Road for the last few miles to Cedar Canyon Road and watch a train pass by
On several previous rides up Kelso-Cima Road, the conductor of a passing train has waved to me. - On several previous rides up Kelso-Cima Road, the conductor of a passing train has waved to me. - Cedar Canyon Road junction, another much-needed break, at 3725 feet on Kelso-Cima Road
Another Clif bar and more hot water descends into my gullet. It's still in the 80s here, and I've completed the 14-mile climb up Kelso-Cima Road. I'll start up Cedar Canyon Road toward the Mid Hills in a few minutes, after I stop sweating (yeah, right). - Information plaque on Mojave Road marker at junction of Cedar Canyon Road and Kelso-Cima Road
The old historic Mojave Road is today mostly a four-wheel drive track. Joe travelled most of the Mojave Road by bicycle a couple of years back; awesome trip! - Mojave Road and Marl Mountains in the background, I try my cell phone here, but there's no reception
In the past, I've managed to make calls a bit further up Cedar Canyon Road, so I'll try again when I get up there. - While at Cedar Canyon Road junction, I notice an indecisive SUV, so I go speak to its driver; maybe he needs directions
He doesn't need directions, he's just wondering if I need help. I'm walking around with my camera, hoping to look like I'm on break, not stranded. Of course, the concern is always appreciated because breakdowns do happen. - Refreshed after my break, I'm ready to start the ride up Cedar Canyon Road when a freight train passes by
I enjoy the spectacle while the road is blocked by the passing train for a few minutes. - The climb up Cedar Canyon Road into the Mid Hills starts out well
Behind me here at about 3800 feet, the old Mojave Road is clearly visible winding up toward Marl Springs in the Marl Mountains. - I pull in at the road to Chicken Water Spring and try my cell phone; it works here as hoped
I call in to change my outgoing message, so that callers know I'm alive and well somewhere out here. Chicken Water Spring was a possible destination, but I've decided to camp at cooler, higher Mid Hills campground and hike down later instead. The gentle curve of the landscape in the background is Cima Dome, which can be seen from many locations in Mojave National Preserve, but not while on it. - Cedar Canyon Road's famous "pavement ends" sign
This sign signifies that I'm leaving pavement for a week and entering a Mojave National Preserve heartland area. I'm at about 4250 feet elevation and the hot Kelso Valley is well behind me now. - Cedar Canyon Road dips down into Cedar Wash for a couple of miles
I've seen only a couple of cars on this road, so it's weird to see several all at once. They appear to be part of a group. It's Monday, the end of a long Memorial Day weekend, so there are people leaving Mojave National Preserve who work tomorrow. - Cedar Canyon Road is scenic, but I'm always so happy when I reach the junction of Black Canyon Road at 5000 feet
I take a break here to cool down and eat another Clif bar before continuing up Black Canyon Road to Mid Hills campground, pretending to photograph things while I linger here. A woman in an RV passes by, looking for directions and we chat for ten minutes. She discovered Mojave National Preserve by chance on her trip and loves it here (she camped at Sunrise Rock near Cima Dome last night). However, the washboarded dirt roads here are difficult for her. - Black Canyon Road rises up from Cedar Canyon Road toward the Mid Hills, Mojave National Preserve
It's not all that steep, but on a heavily loaded bike near the end of a long, warm day, it can feel like a sharp uphill. The heavy 2.35" Serfas Swoop mountain tires that I put on the bike for this trip are really helping. - Black Canyon Road's grade here ranges from three to seven per cent, with a bit of loose sand on a hard washboard surface
This is one of the toughest parts of today's ride, as it always is when I ride to Mid Hills campground. - After climbing out of Cedar Canyon Road, Black Canyon Road reaches the plateau of Round Valley
A windmill to my right sits in land that is probably still used for cattle grazing. - Wild Horse Canyon Road junction, and Mid Hills campground is just two miles away
I'm getting close, but I'm quite pooped. I always feel like this whenever I approach Mid Hills campground. The best part is that I'm at 5275 feet elevation and it's noticeably cooler up here. - The last couple of miles before Mid Hills campground bring a few short hills just when you have little energy left
These final short hills aren't all that steep (three to eight per cent grade), but they kick my butt each time I come here on the 10-ton bike. I usually end up walking the bike up them to conserve energy. - Almost at Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve
The slight uphill and gravelly, washboard surface of Wild Horse Canyon Road makes for a very slow final quarter mile! - Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, entrance kiosk
This kiosk burned down during the "Hackberry Complex" forest fires of 2005. - I ride through Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve, and select site 22, where I've camped previously
Site 22 was not burned by the 2005 fires like half of the camp sites. It has great views toward the Clark Mountain Range without being quite as exposed to the mountain winds as some of the adjacent, higher camp sites. (It does get windy up here!) - Desert four o'clock flowers
So far, I've only encountered desert four o'clocks in the higher mountain areas of the Mojave Desert. - A pinon pine infant grows near a banana yucca at Mid Hills campground, Mojave National Preserve
Many of the pinon pines and junipers at Mid Hill campground burned during the 2005 fires here. This pinon seedling demonstrates post-fire regrowth in the area. - After selecting site 22, I ride through the deserted Mid Hills campground back to the entrance kiosk to deposit my fees
It's a 0.6-mile ride back to the entrance kiosk. I pass a lone car at one camp site, but it's leaving. Mid Hills campground is otherwise empty, which pleases me since I come to Mojave National Preserve seeking solitude, not other campers. Everyone except me is apparently going back to work tomorrow after the long Memorial Day weekend. Perfect timing! I deposit $60 at the kiosk to cover five nights of camping, in the hope of the campground mostly to myself during the week. - Returning to my tent at Mid Hills site 22, I spot some tiny flowers along the road that I've never noticed before
Maybe I've seen these plants many times but didn't notice them because they weren't flowering... - Mid Hills campground sunset; I set up my burner on the picnic table and get ready to boil water for tonight's meal
I'm comfortably cool up here at 5600 feet where a nearby weather station is recording 74 degrees. Now that I've escaped from the heat down below, I think I'm going to enjoy this Mojave National Preserve trip after all. - Sunset haze drifts over the Ivanpah Mountains and the Clark Mountain Range beyond
I hope to make it over to the Clark Mountain area next week. For now I'll enjoy the sunset and perfect evening temperature from inside my tent, screened off from the flies and moths. Supper is Backpacker's Pantry Jamaican BBQ Chicken and Rice. The bit of spice is nice, but overall rather bland in flavour; too much taste of rehydrated vegetables. It's OK, but I can do better, I'll try not to buy this one again. I am treated to soothing breezes from time to time throughout the evening. High above these hills, phantom winds howl eerily, heard clearly, but usually not felt. I'm exhausted from the heat of the last couple of days and today's climb of almost 3500 feet. I fall asleep before 23h, a rarity for me. - Bicycle route from my Cornfield Spring Road campsite to Mid Hills campground, via Kelso-Cima Road (Day 3)
27.9 bicycle miles from my Cornfield Spring Road campsite to Mid Hills campground, rising from 2125 feet at Kelso Depot to 5600 feet. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from my Cornfield Spring Road campsite to Mid Hills campground, via Kelso-Cima Road (Day 3)
27.9 bicycle miles from my Cornfield Spring Road campsite to Mid Hills campground, rising from 2125 feet at Kelso Depot to 5600 feet.