Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / Spring 2011: Mojave National Preserve and area bicycle camping / Day 7: Castle Peaks Road to Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve, by bicycle via Lanfair Valley 71
Another perfect day, temperature-wise, though a bit windy at times. I pack up and move camp over to the Mid Hills area for a few days. 42.5 slow dirt-road bicycle miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain.
- It's warm in the sun this morning, so I move everything into the shade of my juniper tree while I pack up camp
I slept well last night and enjoyed my quick breakfast of granola, nuts, dried fruit, vitamin-C drink and coffee. I've enjoyed my three nights here at the end of Castle Peaks Road and am ready for the next stage of this trip! - I hate packing up, but it went reasonably well, and now I begin the ride down Castle Peaks Road
Leaving my campsite by 10h is early for me, but I have a long ride ahead across the heart of Mojave National Preserve. In the sand here, I have to walk the 10-ton bike, and I see my bike tracks and footprints from the past couple of days. - Approaching the dry reservoir on Castle Peaks Road, I see more of my bicycle tracks from three days ago
On yesterday's hike, I made a right turn here, but today I'll climb over the hill ahead and out of this valley. - Today's ride will be to the other side of Lanfair Valley, roughly as far as the eye can see here
I'm looking forward to the long ride ahead, all on dirt roads. It won't be a fast ride due to rough road surfaces, but the ups and downs along the way will be gradual for the most part. - It's fun riding down this little hill on Castle Peaks Road on the way out of the New York Mountains foothills
I forgot about this hill, but now I remember walking the 10-ton bike up it three days ago. - Riding a winding road in a quiet joshua-tree forest is always enjoyable
The best part is that it's slightly downhill on Castle Peaks Road, so the slightly sandy road doesn't pose any traction difficulties for the 10-ton bike. - Castle Peaks Road ends after 30 minutes; I start riding the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade and find this stray balloon
This Mother's Day balloon speaks Spanish (Feliz dia mama). It goes into my saddlebags for later disposal. - I have a slight headwind, so I don't hear the six 4WD vehicles sneaking up behind me on the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade
I'm startled! I hear a noise, then notice six vehicles right behind me! Shocking, I haven't seen people in 3 days. As they pass, we chat briefly. One of them gives me a bottle of water (colder than mine, thanks!) and one of them thinks I'm nuts. Some people don't realize it's possible and potentially rewarding to travel without a motor vehicle. Motor-vehicle advertising, which so many people happily consume, reinforces such ideas. Ironically, the people who think my bicycle trips are impossibly extreme are sometimes people much stronger than I. - After 3 miles on the Barnwell-Searchlight railway grade, it ends by an open area, where the next road on my route should begin
Good view of the New York Mountains peaks at centre-left from this area. The lower peaks at centre-right are in the area of the Bathtub Spring Peaks, where I hiked yesterday. - With assistance from my Delorme GPS, I locate the old road that I'm hoping to follow; it's nearly invisible!
Can you see it straight ahead? I can't. I keep checking my GPS to make sure this is it, and it is. This road hasn't been used at all in a very long time, which is not a good sign. I try riding it anyway. - After about 100 feet on this old grown-in road, I decide to turn back and take the longer, but easier, Hart Mine Road instead
I love the old backroads, but... It looks like I'll be essentially walking the 10-ton bike cross-country if I continue on this route straight ahead. That might be fun, but I have many more miles to cover today, preferably during daylight. - Hart Mine Road is a rough dirt road that rises about 250 feet in 2.5 miles on my detour route via Barnwell
It's not steep, but it's bumpy and slow. The rocks along the road are radiating heat, and I'm sweating a bit. My U-shaped bypass around the non-existent road I was hoping to follow will add about 4.5 miles. - As I approach the former settlement of Barnwell, Mojave National Preserve, I pass an old windmill and water tank
The 10-ton bike waits for me while I climb up the side of the water tank. It's dry inside, as I expected, since it's no longer maintained for use. - Across the road from the old Barnwell water tank is a corral and another windmill
If I weren't on a mission to reach Mid Hills campground (or Hole-in-the-Wall campground) by the end of the day, I'd stop for an extended exploration break here. - That old house at Barnwell that I always notice with all the junked vehicles around it: the gate is open
I've always thought that this property is not abandoned, so I've never approached it. But maybe it is... - It might be interesting to count how many old cars and trucks sit on this Barnwell property!
A few of these vehicles are rather old. - This old house at Barnwell, Mojave National Preserve looks like it was once well cared for
The hipped roof makes the house possibly quite old, while the wide horizontal windows, sliding patio door, and front addition are probably later additions, intended to make the house more "modern." - The old house at Barnwell has a stone chimney
The side door is open, but I don't enter, as much as I'm curious. - Behind the main house at Barnwell is a smaller, more modest, "guest-quarters" house
With a windmill in its backyard, it also has the front door open to visitors, and meth producers. - Hart Mine Road ends at Barnwell, so I turn south on Ivanpah Road, with the New York Mountains peaks in front of me
The rolling hills along Ivanpah Road here top out at 4800-4900 feet elevation, the highest point I'll ride until I reach the Mid Hills campground area at the end of the day. - From the top of Ivanpah Road near Barnwell, I can still see over to Castle Peaks, but this view won't last long
A few robust Palmer's penstemons bloom along the road here. - Ivanpah Road rolls over a pass in the New York Mountains and then descends slowly into Lanfair Valley
I remember the first time I rode over this "summit" over 10 years ago in the Keystone Canyon area. - I locate a berm of earth, part of the old Ivanpah railway grade and the "invisible" road I wanted to ride earlier
Well, my invisible road is hard to find and rarely used from this end too. I'm still curious about it and might return another day when I have more time to explore. - With relatively few wildflowers along Ivanpah Road, this little garden against a New York Mountains backdrop gets my attention
Pink Palmer's penstemon, an orange Desert mallow and a yellow Desert marigold. - Ivanpah Road rides ever so slightly downhill across Lanfair Valley
The grade is one or two percent, but the surface rough enough that I can't build up much speed. I'm glad I'm not carrying the weight of a full water load today. I have just enough water for the day, and it tastes like plastic. - The 10-ton bike takes a break at the junction of New York Mountains Road so I can check out an old OX Ranch corral
OX Ranch, now owned by the National Parks Service, was one of the major cattle ranches in the area. Several installations and buildings remain here. - A couple of old water tanks and a windmill sit near Ivanpah Road at the OX Ranch site
These were operational not so long ago. - One of the buildings remaining at the OX Ranch site is this mobile home
A couple of houses are here as well, in a no-trespassing area, presumably in the hope of preventing vandalism. - A bit beyond the OX Ranch site is a private, by-reservation-only campground called 'Mojave Desert Outpost'
Maybe I should camp here one day... I stop here to refill my Camelbak with more of my plastic-tasting water. I'm looking forward to better water at the end of the day! - I know I'm getting close to the junction of Ivanpah Road and Cedar Canyon Road when I see power lines along the road
There are a number of residences in this area, where some families have lived for a century or more. - I've been riding Ivanpah Road for over two hours; I'll turn right onto Cedar Canyon Road just ahead
According to the sign, I have 20 miles until I reach Mid Hills campground, or 24 to Hole-in-the-Wall campground. I haven't decided yet which one is my destination. - The junction of Ivanpah Road and Cedar Canyon Road is my low point of the day, at about 4050 feet elevation
Great view of nearby Hackberry Mountain, which I might visit for the first time later during this trip. - Riding up Cedar Canyon Road, I spot an abandoned house, so the 10-ton bike pulls over to allow a few minutes of exploration
Any excuse for another break! - At first, I think the house has been vandalized, then I think maybe it's in the process of being demolished
This house doesn't look all that old, but maybe it has been renovated during past decades to intentionally remove all vestiges of the past. - A pile of debris sits in front of the little house on Cedar Canyon Road
This must be intentional, and not vandalism. - Behind the little house on Cedar Canyon Road, some of the old fake-brick tiles are neatly piled
It looks like this was once a little stucco house until it was clad in those ugly fake-brick tiles. Fake is still very much alive today, but not so much in this style that recalls the 1970s. - I peer through a broken window at the disarray inside the house
Faux-wood paneling! A few bottles of food items sit on the counter amongst the mess. Maybe the house is being repaired rather than demolished... - Near the old house, a bird lands atop a joshua tree
S/he's the security guard, watching my every move. - Some stretches of Cedar Canyon Road have significant sand accumulation, in addition to being washboarded
Since there's almost no traffic, I often ride all over the road, looking for the least bumpy and least sandy surface. I've been riding in this drunken style all day on these roads. - I can zoom in for good views of the Hackberry Mountains while riding Cedar Canyon Road
I might make it over to the Hackberry Mountains later during this trip, so I study the view. Of special interest is the tilted upward surface at the right. - Long stretches of Cedar Canyon Road are perfectly straight, but there are some curves and even a few 90-degree corners
It's funny how some parts of the road are nice and smooth, like here, while others are more challenging on the 10-ton bike. - I'm intrigued by this sign for Ashwell Road, since there's not much of a road visible here
However, there is a lot of private property in this area, so perhaps this trail leads to one of those tracts. - A short distance ahead is another modest old house along Cedar Canyon Road, against a Hackberry Mountains backdrop
I keep on riding, but this one would be fun to check out also. Maybe next time... - Oooo, a car is approaching on Cedar Canyon Road!
I've only seen a few cars today, which surprises me because it's Saturday, and parks get the most visitors on weekends. The road will make a 90-degree turn to the right in front of those hills ahead. - In this part of Lanfair Valley right now are some wide expanses of small yellow flowers
These might be Goldenbushes. A few buttes and hills rise out of Lanfair Valley, which otherwise looks almost flat (except that I'm riding a bicycle, and am quite aware that it's slightly uphill!) - The 10-ton mountain bike slowly gains altitude on Cedar Canyon Road
It's a slow, leisurely ride with a bit of a headwind, but perfect temperature: warm sun, cool breeze. - I'm riding a curvy stretch of Cedar Canyon Road now, heading straight toward Pinto Mountain for a few minutes
I hiked a piece of Pinto Mountain last year. Ahead in the distance are the pinnacles around Howe Spring, which I hope to visit in a few days. - As I approach Watson Wash on Cedar Canyon Road, I pass a turn-off to an old alignment of the 4WD Mojave Road
I can see that part of the narrow Mojave Road rolls quite steeply over the hills ahead, whereas the modern-day Cedar Canyon Road rides along much more gradually. - I rattle my way across the part of Cedar Canyon Road that crosses Watson Wash
To avoid the heavily washboarded surface, I ride on the far right whenever possible. However, occasional sand accumulations on the shoulder push me out into the middle of the road sometimes. Bounce, bounce. - After crossing Watson Wash, I turn off Cedar Canyon Road to visit the Bert Smith rock house
I've been here before, but it's a great excuse for another short break. - The Bert Smith rock house has an excellent view from the front door
The New York Mountains and Drum Peak sit on the other side of the valley. - To my surprise, the door to the Bert Smith rock house is not locked like it was when I last visited
Is the house supposed to be open? It's quite beautiful in a simple and basic way, based on stone and wood. My kind of place. - The Bert Smith rock house has a low ceiling and dark-colored surfaces
This dark interior would be oppressive in a deep forest, but not here, with big views and open spaces on all sides of the house. - The little windows that flank the fireplace in the Bert Smith rock house are hinged on the top
A small wooden block below the window rotates to secure it when in the closed position. - A small kitchen hides behind these built-in shelves; interesting joint in the beam
The National Parks Service has done a nice job restoring the Bert Smith rock house. I'm glad I've been able to visit the interior. - After my visit to the Bert Smith rock house, I continue riding westward on the washboard of Cedar Canyon Road
Mid Hills campground, my probable destination, is up in those hills to the left. However, I might change my mind and ride down to Hole-in-the-Wall campground instead. I don't need to decide yet. - Cedar Canyon Road bends again and heads toward Pinto Mountain for a few minutes
I've taken this photo on previous trips out here and can't resist taking it again. I chat briefly with a lone passing motorist who tells me he saw another bicyclist just a short while ago on this road. - I like this old range fence off Cedar Canyon Road in front of Pinto Mountain
Fences aren't built of rough-hewn wood like this any more. - I reach my shortcut road that connects Cedar Canyon Road with Black Canyon Road
It looks like many vehicles turn in here, but I think they mostly turn around and leave when they see how rough the road is. There aren't nearly so many tire tracks a bit further up the road. - As I climb the gentle hill, I reach a part of the shortcut road with far fewer tire tracks
The desert mallows grow freely here and obscure the road somewhat. - The shortcut road is only 3/4 mile long, but it's nice to be off the main roads for a few minutes
Segments of this road would require a high-clearance vehicle, but are fine on a mountain bike. - Hey, a fresh bicycle track on the shortcut road, and it isn't mine!
The motorist I spoke to back on Cedar Canyon Road told me he had seen another bicycle earlier, so this must be the route that the bicyclist followed. - I'm back out on a main road now (Black Canyon Road this time) and pass the windmill at Holliman Well
I'm up at about 5275 feet elevation now. - At the junction of Black Canyon Road and Wild Horse Canyon Road, I decide to turn right toward Mid Hills campground
I consider heading straight ahead toward Hole-in-the-Wall campground, since I need to go there tomorrow anyway (to recharge my cell phone). However, I like Mid Hills campground so much better, and I'm already up in the area. - A couple of short steep hills on the final stretch on Wild Horse Canyon Road toward Mid Hills campground always get me
It's always at the end of the day when I reach these hills, which is why they are always feel tougher than it seems like they should be. - I check out the view behind me while walking the 10-ton bike up the little hill
I can see all the way across Round Valley and Lanfair Valley to the Castle Mountains, over in the general area where I started this morning some 40 bicycle miles ago. - I make it up to the crest of Wild Horse Canyon Road and a few orange desert-mallow flowers say "hello"
Just a short flat stretch of road ahead before I arrive at Mid Hills campground. I should be able to zoom in on the Providence Mountains over there... - The Providence Mountains often catch a bit of pink light at the end of the day
- I arrive at the Mid Hills campground entrance kiosk; I'm happy to be back for yet another visit
It's Saturday, the "busy" time in this park, so I'm not surprised that my favourite campsites at the north end of the road 1/2 mile ahead are taken. I find one on the east side of the road, private and nicely sheltered from the winds that have picked up this evening. I end up chatting with a guy walking up the road who happens to be "the other bicyclist," the one who made those mysterious tire tracks I saw on the shortcut road off Cedar Canyon Road a couple of hours ago. he rode over to the Bert Smith rock house and back from the campground here. I get my tent set up just as it gets dark, make my add-boiling-water-to-bag meal and settle in for a chilly evening up here at 5600 feet elevation. It's rather windy all evening, but I'm tired from today's long ride and fall asleep easily around 23h30. - Bicycle route from Castle Peaks campsite to Mid Hills campground via Cedar Canyon Road
42.5 dirt-road bicycle miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Castle Peaks campsite to Mid Hills campground via Cedar Canyon Road
42.5 dirt-road bicycle miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain.