Home / Mojave Preserve and Desert bikepacking trips / 2007, Christmas: Mojave National Preserve Mountain-Bike Camping / Day 0: Baker, California, gateway to Mojave National Preserve, Xmas Eve 13
Mojave National Preserve has numerous entrance points, but Baker, California is the only one served by public transit.
I arrive from San José on Amtrak at 20h30 and spend the evening at the el-cheapo Royal Hawaiian Motel, as I often do. I'll head out into Mojave National Preserve, just on the other side of the freeway, tomorrow.
- My pile of supplies and gear dumped in the spare bedroom the night before leaving home
It's 22h30 and you'd think I'd be ready to leave by now since I leave on Amtrak early tomorrow morning. But this trip wasn't planned; I don't usually do winter bike trips due to the wet weather that's typical in California at this time of the year. I impulsively decided earlier this week to do this trip when I realized that dry weather has been forecast for the Mojave Desert for the next week. I spent much of the weekend doing last-minute errands such as buying a new tent and new front saddlebags, all of which needed replacing after eight years of performance. My new front waterproof saddlebags are from Ortlieb, almost like my old ones, but red instead of dark green. They're not cheap, but they're more than worth the money because they deal with use and abuse so well. - The 10-ton bike and I are ready to leave downtown San José and head to Mojave National Preserve again!
There really are other places in the world to visit besides Mojave National Preserve, but I keep going back anyway. With each visit, I get to know the area better and notice places that I haven't had a chance to explore. It's one of the biggest national parks, vast enough that even Park staff often doesn't know all the nooks and crannies, so I'll probably be going back to the area a few more times yet. - My Amtrak bus out of San José leaves me at Stockton, where I transfer to an Amtrak train to Bakersfield
After the 4.5-hour train ride to Bakersfield, I'll transfer to an Amtrak bus to Baker that will take four more hours. The Stockton train station is located in a decayed industrial area that gets very little pedestrian traffic. Heavy metal bars on the train station's windows and doors suggest that it's a high-crime area. - Across the tracks from the Stockton Amtrak station is an old house that looks abandoned, but isn't
The windows of the house facing the tracks appear to be boarded-up (perhaps to block train noise), with iron security bars mounted on top. But the property is well-maintained and I notice some children playing in the yard and entering the house. - I spend 4.5 hours on the Amtrak San Joaquin train, occasionally staring at the tray-table instructions in front of me
Fortunately, the train serves food, and the chicken burrito is pretty good. Beer is also available, but it's a bit early in the day for beer (for me at least). - The Amtrak bus leaves me at Baker, California at around 20h30, gateway to Mojave National Preserve
I mount my saddlebags and sleeping bag on the bike and ride a half mile down the road toward the Royal Hawaiian Motel, which will be home tonight. - After checking in at Baker's Royal Hawaiian Motel for Xmas Eve, I walk back up the road to get a meal at the Mad Greek
The Mad Greek restaurant at Baker's four-way stop sign is one of just a few non-chain restaurants and shops in town. Mostly, Baker is just a huge freeway service stop for motorists en route between Las Vegas and Los Angeles, oblivious to the existence of Mojave National Preserve. With just one main street and a resident population of about 900, there are nonetheless numerous gas stations, adjoining well-lit convenience stores and uninteresting chain restaurants, as well as three motels. Baker also hosts "the world's tallest thermometer," the tall structure in the photo. It's 50 degrees F tonight, which is much warmer than what was forecast. The unexpected balmy weather is being caused by very high winds blowing warm air in from the south. I hope these winds don't make bicycling difficult tomorrow... The bright light in the sky is not a UFO taking off from Alien Fresh Jerky just up the road; it's the full moon rising. - The Royal Hawaiian Motel is the cheapest motel in Baker, and for good reason (at $49/night it's not exactly cheap, however)
The rooms recall the 1970s and often exhibit various features of obsolescence, such as this out-of-service wall heater and a big stain on the thick carpet. I've stayed here several times now, and each room is a little different. - Even the message telling the visitor that this heater is no longer in use appears to be many years old
The tape attaching the message to the heater hasn't detached yet. - Overview of my room at the Royal Hawaiian Motel
This room still has the original knotty pine ceiling. The ceiling in many other rooms has since been covered up by the kind of faux-wood paneling that adorns the walls here. The power goes out a few times during the evening for a few seconds. I'm left wondering if the power failure is caused by tonight's wind storm or if it's because I'm running the heater in the room. - The stained ceiling in the bathroom tells a story of a shower in the room above that leaked
Perhaps the ceiling still leaks now; the sink in this room is clogged and drains extremely slowly. - The particle-board door on the bathroom has never been painted
This replacement door looks like it was installed years ago, judging by the water stains. - Fluorescent bulbs above the beds (and almost everywhere else) create a retro 1970s fashion
The symmetrical arrangement is further complemented by the landscape painting hung above the beds. It has been a long day of travelling and I fall asleep easily in this quiet place. (Who else spends Xmas Eve in a motel?)