Home 7119
- OK, it's time to come out from behind this big old barberry bush and walk up there to Cliff Canyon Spring Peak #2
It's just another 300 feet higher. - I come across another another one of those old rough-hewn wood fences that I always like
At first, I'm worried that I might not be able to get past it easily on the way to the next little summit. However, I quickly find an easy place to cross the barbed wire. - The old range fence crosses the view back down toward my Pinto Valley campsite
I can see all the way over to the easily recognizable landmarks that are Pinto Mountain and Table Mountain. - I keep looking back behind me at the saddle that leads down to Cliff Canyon Spring
Maybe vertigo-man here should just enjoy the views and not try hiking down those slopes. The haze out there blowing in from Los Angeles is quite remarkable. - Just a little further until I reach the top...
Many trees up here escaped the 2005 brush fires, but not all of them did. Perhaps the wind was blowing so hard that the fire didn't have a chance to burn everything it its path. - Up on Cliff Canyon Spring Peak #2 at about 6550 feet elevation is a claim marker and lots of low-growing cacti
That's Ivanpah Dry Lake off in the distance, nearly invisible from today's Los Angeles smog invasion. - From Cliff Canyon Spring Peak #2 at 6550 feet, I can make out Brant Road along the train tracks below, despite the visiting smog
I've explored a little down in that area in the past; very nice! - From here, I could continue downhill a few hundred feet and then up over to that next ridge in the New York Mountains
I think I'll leave that until next time. And no, I wouldn't have enough to go all the way to the New York Mountains peaks in the distance, even if this vertigo-man had enough daylight for that... - Up on Cliff Canyon Spring Peak #2 are a lot of ankle-high cacti
This makes for interesting "avoidance hiking," and I pick up a few needles in the soles of my shoes. - These burned tree skeletons near Cliff Canyon Spring Peak #2 don't care much about the strong winds up here!
Despite the smog, I can still sort of see Clark Mountain poking up in the distance. - Looking back toward my Pinto Valley campsite, I see a whole hillside that escaped the 2005 brush fires
Presumably, the hill protected the trees and allowed the wind to blow the flames right over them. - It's a clear sunny day above the smog layer that's blowing across the Ivanpah Valley below
When the wind dies down, will the smog layer dissipate? - I keep looking across upper Fourth of July Canyon at the New York Mountains peaks
If I had started today's hike a little earlier, I would have time to explore over that way a bit. - This pinon pine tree appears to have burned a bit during the 2005 brush fires, but not enough for it to die
Hopefully, it will drop enough pine cones to start a few more trees. They grow so slowly. - Several Claret-cup cacti up here on the Cliff Canyon Spring Peaks are blooming
Way off in the distance, I can see the high points of the Providence Mountains poking up behind the Cabin Springs Peaks. - I decide to follow the old range fence for a while as I start my way back down to Pinto Valley
I'm following a different saddle on the way down. With so much to explore out here, there's no point following the same route back to camp that I used to get up here. The New York Mountains peak on my left is Drum Peak. - I pass by a few junipers and see that I'm descending into an unusually green-looking little upland valley
Actually, it's yellowish green. - At the bottom of the valley, an uninterrupted patch of grey-green bunch grasses grows
The soil here is cracked, which suggests that the valley holds water for extended periods of time. - On the edge of the now-dry wet area are lots of tiny yellow flowers
At first I thought these are Goldfields, but I'm not sure what they are. - A few larger flowers also grow in this valley, which I think are Desert dandelions (Malacothrix californica)
I'm wondering what those little yellow flowers are... - After crossing the little valley, I take a look back up toward the Cliff Canyon Spring Peaks to look at its banded appearance
In the foreground is the band with little yellow flowers, then the grey-green band of bunch grass (which looks almost like sagebrush from here), followed by a band of juniper trees. - Some yellow Groundsel flowers also decorate the saddle I'm following back down to Pinto Valley
I find myself wondering what I always wonder when I'm out on these hikes: "When did someone last hike here?" - Well, I've just passed through some yellow; now it's time for some purple
After two weeks in the muted colours of the Mojave Desert hills, this purple patch seems so bright. - I'm not sure what these purple flowers are
Some kind of phacelia, perhaps? - It's interesting to find so many of these purple flowers on just this one hillside in the New York Mountains
I haven't seen these blue/purple flowers elsewhere in the area today, at least not yet. - I'm tempted to climb down into the sandy wash as I get closer to Pinto Valley
... but I still have a few more panoramic views ahead of me, so I'll stay up on the saddle. - As I hike downhill toward home, I see that some of the smog haze has blown into Pinto Valley as well
... but not nearly as much as what I saw looking down into Ivanpah Valley from the Cliff Canyon Springs Peaks a while ago. - I'm officially at the bottom of the New York Mountains foothills now
The familiar Howe Spring pinnacles are not all that far ahead now, and I'm hiking on what's left of the old road here. - One bush that I encounter occasionally in the Mojave Desert Mountains is the Barberry
Even the leaves on this guy are hard and sharp, though not quite like a cactus. Best of all, many of them have sprouted back after being burned by the 2005 brush fires out here. - I'm back down in Pinto Valley earlier than expected, so I go for a walk up a barely visible old road on the way back to camp
The road is returning to nature and isn't always easy to follow. - A few stretches of the old road here on the other side of Howe Spring are still well-defined
And a few more old juniper trees in the area here survived the 2005 brush fires. - I decide to go climb a few boulders over on the nearby rock pile
Who knows what I might find there on my way back home! - It's fun to hike over the rocks in this quiet corner of Pinto Valley
I don't stumble across anything special here, but the endless lines and textures are a pleasure to explore. - Looking back at the New York Mountains foothills, I realize that today's hike was not too difficult, and worth the effort
The Cliff Canyon Spring Peaks up there are about 1000 feet higher than here. Effort and some fitness is required, but you don't need to be an athlete to do this hike. - As I walk around the rocks near Howe Spring, I reflect on how I haven't seen another human for almost 4 days
Solitude! - This pile of rocks reminds me of a rabbit viewed in side profile, with its head facing toward the right
Yes, I've been in the desert for two weeks now... - Front-on, these rocks look like a twisted, drunken face
Popeye would be proud of this rock outcrop. - Nearby is another interesting rock outcrop
Rocket-launch rock. - This part of Howe Spring Road follows a sandy, eroded wash
Judging by the erosion along the road, this might look like a small river during heavy rainfall. - I pass yet another sculptural pile of rocks in Pinto Valley on the way back to my tent
The rolling hills in the background are the north side of Pinto Mountain. - As I get closer to my tent, I notice my tire tracks and footprints from the past few days here in Pinto Valley
I guess no one else has come up this road since I've been here... - Arriving back at my tent, I take note of the patch of pink Desert primroses near the fire ring
There's almost as much wind down here by my tent as there was up in the New York Mountains hills (as you can see by the leaning flowers and grass). - I'm going to boil water for supper on this side of the tent, to shelter my gas flame from the wind
Supper will be Backpacker's Pantry Kathmandu Curry (vegan and tasty), plus my last few pieces of buffalo jerky. I have very little food left, but tomorrow I'll be riding back to Primm, Nevada to end this trip. - One last sunset at Pinto Valley
Despite the clear skies, it's incredibly windy tonight (again). At this point, the tent is trying to lift off and blow away. The big rocks I placed in the tent are keeping it down, but they're starting to wear through the tent fabric. I hope I can get enough sleep inside the noisy tent. I'm tired, so I manage to fall asleep easily around 23h30, despite my tent flapping in the gusty winds, but I keep waking up during the night for extended periods of time. - High winds overnight at Pinto Valley kept me from getting much sleep on this final night of the trip: miserable
I've been awake half the night, due to the high winds, and now I'm up for good at 6h, way too early for me. I'm looking forward to today's 47-mile ride back to Primm, Nevada, but hope I won't conk out due to lack of sleep and energy. - I dig one final cat hole in Pinto Valley and no flies drop by to disturb me while I fill it up
I hope all these dark clouds floating past won't turn into rain. It's chilly this morning and I keep my heavy clothes on. I have no idea what the weather forecast is. - My tent threatens to blow away while I pack it up one last time (until the next trip, of course)
Since I'm up so early today, and sleep-deprived, I have three cups of instant Starbucks coffee (instead of the usual two) with my granola-and-dried-apricots breakfast. I have almost no food left; this wouldn't be a good day for a breakdown! - Everything is packed up and I'm almost ready to leave Pinto Valley after four nights here
It's chilly enough this morning that I'm wearing my long underwear and bandana while packing, even though these activities generate heat. - I leave my Pinto Valley campsite at 5650 feet elevation and start coasting down Howe Spring Road around 9h
It doesn't look downhill, but I'll drop almost 400 feet during the first two miles. Best of all, that strong, nasty wind is now my friend, since I have it behind me. I especially like this because I didn't get much sleep last night. - I keep looking back at the ominous clouds behind me as I ride down Howe Spring Road
I managed to miss the rain showers that passed through this area during day 4 of this trip, and I'm hoping I'll be as lucky today, should some rain materialize. - I stop to check out the remains of an old building along Howe Spring Road
An old cabin? An old outbuilding? - My route ahead will take me across Watson Wash
I may have to walk the bike up part of that short steep hill on the way out of the wash. - I'm on New York Mountains Road now, and this part of it squiggles toward Drum Peak
Hmmm... could Drum Peak be a future hiking destination? - On New York Mountains Road, I notice strange noises coming from the 10-ton bike, so I pull over to see what's wrong
A couple of bolts on my old Jandd saddlebags have loosened, so I tighten them, which I don't think I've done before. These bags have served extremely well over the years. From here, I can still see Table Mountain over on the other side of the valley. - I pass a few little roads in this scenic area at the foot of the New York Mountains near Carruthers Canyon
I camped near here back in 2006, thinking I was in Carruthers Canyon. I was nearby, but not quite there! - I turn off on an unnamed road, which I'll call the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off, and leave the better New York Mountains Road behind
I haven't been down this road before, so I'm not sure what to expect, but it appears to be traveled fairly often. - The Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road passes through a stand of juniper trees as it begins its gentle descent
I'm at about 5175 feet elevation here, and it will be mostly gentle downhill for the rest of the day. - I reach a junction on the five-mile-long Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road
I start riding down the right fork, then decide I should check my maps, in case my intuition is wrong. Yes, my intuition is wrong; I turn back and take the left fork instead. - Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road is rather rough in places
... but it's a pretty nice ride on a mountain bike, at least in the downhill direction, even fully loaded with all my travel gear. - Much of the landscape along Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road seems to be quite pristine
Tufts of grass provide ground cover in the open areas between joshua trees. - I can see across the eastern end of Lanfair Valley over to the Castle Peaks area, where I spent a few days last week
Miles of joshua trees... Not as dense as the joshua-tree forest in the Cima Dome area, but still, miles of joshua trees. - It's time for a short break to enjoy the solitude of Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road without the noise of the 10-ton bike
I've ridden just over three of the five miles of this road, and haven't seen anyone else yet today. I'm enjoying my dried-apricot snack, which is one of the few food items I have left. - Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off Road rolls over many low humps, since it cuts across drainage areas from the New York Mountains
I still have the strong Mojave winds pushing me from behind, which makes the ride out here in the middle of nowhere on the 10-ton bike even better. - A few short slopes with loose rock on the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off road force me to get off the bike and walk a bit
I don't mind; it's so enjoyable out here listening to the silence. - Looking back behind me, I can see all the way across Lanfair Valley to flat-topped Table Mountain
It's always nice to look back see the distances that one has covered by pedal-power. - Great views from here across the joshua-tree forest to the New York Mountains peaks
So many little canyons up there to be explored, some day perhaps... - My five-mile ride across the Sagamore Canyon Cut-Off road comes to an end when I reach the bigger Ivanpah Road
I haven't seen another person yet today (nor during the past few days), but I'll likely be passed by the occasional car here on Ivanpah Road. - Ivanpah Road is wide and gravelly
Sometimes, the rough surface provides good traction, but too much loose gravel sometimes makes for an unstable ride. Glad I have fat tires. My mind drifts while riding here and songs get stuck in my head, such as Marc Almond's Jacques Brel covers. - I pull over on Ivanpah Road to check out a couple of Phacelias (Desert canterbury bells) in bloom
There's not much colour here except for green and brown, so these stand out (though I probably wouldn't notice them if I were speeding by in a motor vehicle). I see my first motor vehicle of the day: I exchange waves with the passing pick-up driver. - A couple of cars pass me along Ivanpah Road
The drivers are probably wondering what I'm doing way out here, and I wonder the same about them. - I turn down a side road, just to see what's there, and find this old shot-up car
Time for a closer look! - Not only is the old car (1940s?) well-shot-up, but it's well-buried in sand
I guess this is a good example of how much sand flows down a drainage wash in the New York Mountains area over 50+ years... - Nice view from the driver's seat!
The question is always the same: "Why was this car abandoned in this particular place?" - I walk over to that old headframe, or whatever it is, with the New York Mountains backdrop
...and how old is that big juniper tree anyway? - I spot a tiny bit of blue in the landscape!
A little lupine. - Some of the bunch grasses in this high valley are quite bushy
Any critters hiding in there? - I return to the task of riding back to Primm, Nevada and have views of the Castle Peaks from this part of Ivanpah Road
I spent a few good days in that area earlier during this trip; it seems so far away already. - As I ride past Barnwell, I have to take another photo of the lined-up junked cars
I've photographed this several times over the years. It's a bit different every time! - This segment of Ivanpah Road follows the old railway grade from 100 years ago, and thus cuts right through the hills
Most of the abandoned railway grade today serves as a hiking or 4WD trail. I hiked a segment of the old Ivanpah railway grade on day 6 of this trip. - An uphill car passes me as Ivanpah Road begins its descent into Ivanpah Valley
I'm starting to gain some speed as I coast downhill. - I recognize the Bathtub Spring Peaks area as I ride down Ivanpah Road
I hiked up there behind the big hill ahead on day 6 of this trip. Apparently, not many people do. Awesome area. - I pause briefly along Ivanpah Road when I pass the dirt track leading up to Bathtub Spring, where I hiked on day 6
I was up on "Bathtub Spring Peak" in the middle of this photo, and descended the canyon at centre-right to this area. - In today's cool weather, I'm wearing my windbreaker over my sweater as I descend slowly into Ivanpah Valley
The cool weather I've experienced on this trip has been a real plus. It's often getting quite warm here at this time of year, which is why most of the trip was planned for the higher, cooler elevations. I'm at about 4400 feet elevation right now. - On the west side of Ivanpah Road, I can see roads leading up the hillsides in the Slaughterhouse Spring area
That's another part of the New York Mountains that I have yet to visit. - Downhill I ride toward Ivanpah Valley
Because the road is rather rough, I'm only riding at a relaxing 10-15 miles per hour. - Buckwheats are still flowering along this stretch of Ivanpah Road
I remember seeing quite a few buckwheats while hiking in this area along the old railway grade a week ago. - I arrive at the beginning of the pavement on Ivanpah Road
I'm getting a little closer to civilization. - Down there in the middle of Ivanpah Valley is a homestead
I've often been intrigued by that place while travelling out here. - It's fun to be on pavement again for a change, even if it's only for 2.5 miles: especially since it's downhill
This pavement on Ivanpah Road is the first pavement I've ridden in over a week and I reach 20 miles per hour along here. A strong headwind here is preventing me from riding faster. - As I approach the train tracks, I pass the old Ivanpah General Store
This building often gets used by squatters, as I learned when I visited Ivanpah General Store in 2008 and Ivanpah General Store in 2010. - At the Ivanpah Road railroad crossing, I make a right turn toward Nipton on the dirt road (Nipton-Moore Rd) that hugs the tracks
The paved route to Nipton, straight ahead, is longer, smoother, and perhaps faster, but the slow dirt road along the tracks is more relaxing, and pretty much free of cars. - Lonely Nipton-Moore Road dips down to cross numerous drainage washes as it crosses the desert alongside the train tracks
The train tracks however are on raised bridges to keep them from washing away during flood periods. - I have almost 20 miles to ride on this road until I reach Primm and end the day (and this year's trip)
I've got the road all to myself, except for the occasional passing train. Of course, I might encounter a motor vehicle also. - I pass another of these railway bridges and this one has a sandy road running under it, toward Willow Wash
If I were to hike far enough up there, I'd eventually join my Willow Wash hiking route from day 6 of this trip. - Hmmm... it looks like some light rain is falling further over in Ivanpah Valley
I hope this doesn't turn into a brief rainstorm for me. - Nipton-Moore Road rises over a few mounds, and from this one, I can see over to a small outcrop I've nicknamed 'Black Palisades'
I did a short hike from Nipton over to Black Palisades in 2009. - This road is not maintained...
One sees these signs out here in the Mojave Desert here and there. - I think I'm riding right into that cloudy area...
Will I get wet before I make it to my next stop at Nipton? - Just another three miles, and I'll arrive at Nipton for my rest stop
I ride under the power lines and watch Nipton get closer as I pedal on. - My dirt road crosses the paved Nipton Road, where I get off to visit the general store
It's right there, just on the other side of the train tracks. - I stop at Nipton for a relaxing 1.5 hours; I eat vegetable chips and have some liquid refreshment
Nipton is a nice little outpost of civilization and I've camped and showered here many times over the years. I last stopped here two weeks ago, to fill up my water supply on the first day of this trip. - The café at Nipton is closed right now due to plumbing problems
I'm looking forward to it being open again the next time I pass through. Unfortunately, the previous café operator (Bill), enjoyed by many of us visitors, passed away last year. - I guess I need to leave Nipton and get on with the final leg of this trip
The refreshments and relaxation have been good. I've also had a few good chats with people visiting the store, as well as with the gal working here (who I've seen several times over the years). - I'm back on the train-track road, but this time a few miles of it are paved, and called Nipton-Desert Road
I have about 12 miles to go until I reach Primm. - I cross the cattle-guard on Nipton-Desert Road
I remember riding over that on the first day of this trip... - It looks like a few rainy patches are moving around out in the middle of Ivanpah Valley
I've been watching them for the past couple of hours, but I haven't had any contact with them. - I zoom in behind me for a final glance at the Castle Peaks area of the New York Mountains
They're falling further and further behind me. It's already been more than a week since I spent three nights camping and hiking up near those pinnacles. - The pavement on Nipton-Desert Road ends at private property and the road turns sharply left to cross under the train tracks
This location is called Desert, California. As far as I can tell, this settlement only has this one house. - Nipton-Desert Road crosses under the train tracks at the one-house settlement of Desert, California
It will continue to parallel the train tracks all the way to the area of Primm, Nevada. - I keep looking back at the murky clouds over upper Ivanpah Valley toward Cima and the New York Mountains
Looks like virga, but not rain, over there. I guess I'm not going to get rained on today after all. - Nipton-Desert Road comes out from under a few dark clouds as I ride toward Primm
7.5 miles to go... I've been seeing a few jackrabbits as I ride along here. - Vehicles on the I-15 freeway, on the other side of Ivanpah Valley, glisten as the setting sun peers through the clouds
The upper hills in the background, at the end of the Clark Mountain Range, glow lightly. - From here, I can see back to the New York Mountains ridge line where I hiked yesterday (Cliff Canyon Springs Peaks)
I was up on one of the high points in the right third of this photo. - It's always fun when a train passes by while riding these trackside roads in the Mojave Desert
Quite often, the conductor will see me and wave; I wave back, of course. - Well, there's Primm, Nevada just ahead; I guess this year's trip is officially over
The paradox is that I'm happy to be approaching my destination for the day, with some much-needed relaxation ahead tonight, but this casino-wasteland freeway off-ramp shopping mall with cookie-cutter chain stores isn't my idea of an interesting place. - Back on the pavement of Primm, Nevada, where I started two weeks ago
Those silly palm trees, a town aspiring to be something it isn't. - There's Whiskey Pete's Casino and Hotel on the other side of the freeway, where I'll spend this last night; trip over!
A charming gal checks me in for my hotel room. I exude the heavy scent of desert plants mixed with body odour, after 10 days without a shower. She wonders if someone nearby is wearing some kind of interesting herbal perfume. Maybe I don't smell quite as bad as I think I do, or maybe she's just trying to be nice. Tomorrow morning, an Amtrak bus will pick me up here and take me to the San Joaquin train in Bakersfield. - Tomorrow morning, an Amtrak bus will deliver me to the train in Bakersfield, which passes through fields of roses in Wasco
I always enjoy the Amtrak bus ride from the Mojave Desert to Bakersfield (with a stop at Panda Express in the Barstow Station food court for a filling rice plate; I'm hungry!). The Amtrak San Joaquin train up California's Central Valley is a nice way to end a trip. - Bathtub Spring Peaks, New York Mountains hiking route elevation profile
13.4 hiking miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Bathtub Spring Peaks, New York Mountains hiking route
13.4 hiking miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of Castle Peaks hiking route, Mojave National Preserve
10.1 hiking miles and about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of McCullough Mountains hiking route from Pine Spring area
9.2 hiking miles plus about 2200 feet of elevation gain. - McCullough Mountains hike route from Pine Spring area
9.2 hiking miles plus about 2200 feet of elevation gain. - Five-springs hike in the northern Mid Hills/New York Mountains: route
12.2 hiking miles and about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Five-springs hike in the northern Mid Hills/New York Mountains: route
12.2 hiking miles and about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Cliff Canyon Peaks hike, Mojave National Preserve, hiking route
9.3 hiking miles plus about 1700 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of Pinto Valley to Primm, Nevada bicycle route via Ivanpah Road
46.5 bicycle miles and about 2700 feet of elevation loss. - Pinto Valley to Primm, Nevada bicycle route via Ivanpah Road
46.5 bicycle miles and about 2700 feet of elevation loss. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Primm, Nevada to Pine Spring area, McCullough Mountains
29.3 bicycle miles plus about 3500 feet of elevation gain. - Bicycle route from Primm, Nevada to Pine Spring area, McCullough Mountains, Nevada
29.3 bicycle miles plus about 3500 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Mid Hills Campground to Pinto Valley, Mojave National Preserve
16.2 bicycle miles with about 850 feet of elevation gain, an easy day! - Bicycle route from Mid Hills Campground to Pinto Valley, Mojave National Preserve
16.2 bicycle miles with about 850 feet of elevation gain, an easy day! - Elevation profile of bicycle route through Gold Valley to Saddle Horse Canyon from Mid Hills campground
19.7 bicycle miles plus 3.4 hiking miles. - Route of Gold Valley bicycle ride from Mid Hills campground, plus a short hike in Saddle Horse Canyon
19.7 bicycle miles plus 3.4 hiking miles. - Summit Spring hiking route elevation profile
7.1 hiking miles with about 2200 feet of elevation gain, plus 15.5 bicycle miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain - Summit Spring hiking route and Wild Horse Canyon bicycle ride
7.1 hiking miles with about 2200 feet of elevation gain, plus 15.5 bicycle miles with about 1300 feet of elevation gain (bicycle route in red). - Teutonia Peak Trail, Mojave National Preserve, elevation gain
3.3 hiking miles round-trip plus about 700 feet of elevation gain. - Teutonia Peak Trail, Mojave National Preserve, hiking route
3.3 hiking miles round-trip plus about 700 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of bicycle route to Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve from Searchlight, Nevada
26 bicycle miles and about 2000 feet of elevation gain. - Bicycle route to Castle Peaks, Mojave National Preserve from Searchlight, Nevada
26 bicycle miles and about 2000 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Castle Peaks campsite to Mid Hills campground via Cedar Canyon Road
42.5 dirt-road bicycle miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Bicycle route from Castle Peaks campsite to Mid Hills campground via Cedar Canyon Road
42.5 dirt-road bicycle miles plus about 2300 feet of elevation gain. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Pine Spring, McCullough Mountains to Searchlight
19.2 miles and about 1500 feet of elevation loss. - Bicycle route from Pine Spring, McCullough Mountains to Searchlight
19.2 miles and about 1500 feet of elevation loss. - The Boulder
- Rock pile
- End of day
- Here I am yet again taking a break at Mojave National Preserve's Kelso Depot visitor center
I end up chatting with another visitor outside Kelso Depot who happens to pass through Mojave National Preserve often enough, but hasn't gotten around to exploring any of the back roads yet. - As I descend into the Kelso Valley, it's becoming noticeably warmer
Compared to the last few days spent at cooler, higher elevations, this is beginning to qualify as a "hot day" for me. I'm working up a bit of sweat on this downhill. - I start the 19-mile ride down Kelso-Cima Road to Kelso Depot and stop after 5 miles at the junction of Cedar Canyon Road
This is downhill (from 4200 feet to 2100 feet over 19 miles), but the strong south wind pushing me back means that I'm pedalling a lot just to maintain a decent speed. - I'm lucky again when I pass the Cima Store because it's open
I stop in and buy a bag of chips and a can of 7up for a sugar rush. For a change, I don't need to buy any water: I still have some left and I'll fill up down at Kelso Depot in a while. I chat briefly with a ranger who has also stopped at the store. - Yesterday morning I left San José and took Amtrak train and bus to Baker, California to start the trip
After a short ride to the train station from home in downtown San José on the 10-ton bike, I spent 11 hours on the Amtrak train and bus combination to get to Baker, gateway to Mojave National Preserve. - My friend and housesitter hangs out on my front porch as I pull away
I'm looking forward to my two weeks exploring Mojave National Preserve and he's looking forward to having some peace on the property. A budding native chaparral mallow pokes its stem into the photo. - I start this Mojave National Preserve trip by waking up in my kitchy 1980s room at Baker's deteriorating Royal Hawaiian Motel
Time to go for a walk up Baker's main road to get some breakfast at the Big Boy breakfast buffet. This will be my last non-backpack meal for the next week. - Baker's "world's tallest thermometer," next to the Big Boy restaurant, registers a balmy 71 degrees this morning
Temperatures will be in the 90s here in Baker today (it was still in the 80s when I arrived here last night at 20h30), but it will be cooler where I'm going in Mojave National Preserve. - Roadside view of the Royal Hawaiian Motel, my home last night while waiting to begin the bikepacking trip
I often stay here while passing through Baker because it's the cheapest motel in town at $49 if you pay cash. It's a bit seedy and the oldest part of the motel is abandoned, but its well-worn 80s decor lends a special character to the place. I've taken more photos of this place during my earlier trips here. - From my balcony at the Royal Hawaiian, I can see Kelbaker Road heading into the cherished emptiness of Mojave National Preserve
After my huge meal at the breakfast buffet, I return to my motel room to pack up and get going. - The 10-ton bike is now packed and assembled, ready to leave the Royal Hawaiian and spend two weeks in Mojave National Preserve
I considered starting my trip last night when I got off the Amtrak bus at 20h30 by riding off into the dark and camping near Indian Springs. However, I was quite tired, so I ate a big meal at the Mad Greek restaurant and stayed at the motel instead. - Leaving Baker, the 10-ton bike and I cross the I-15 freeway and head toward Mojave National Preserve
This is my fifth bikepacking trip in Mojave National Preserve starting in Baker. Crossing over the freeway to leave town is always a milestone of sorts. - A quarter mile or so beyond the freeway crossing, I reach the Mojave National Preserve entrance marker and leave the past behind
There's almost no traffic on Kelbaker Road here and it already feels quiet. Most of the traffic coming off the noisy freeway behind me turns in the opposite direction, heading into Baker. - Almost 13 miles up Kelbaker Road, I stop briefly at the rough dirt road to Indian Springs, Mojave National Preserve
Just before I stop, a passing dust devil pelts me with sand. Ouch. It's a very windy day, which is common in the Mojave Desert, and I'm lucky that most of the wind has been behind me so far. I spent two nights at Indian Springs during my Xmas 2007 Mojave National Preserve trip a few months ago and did a day hike in the area; great place. I may stop here again at the end of this trip on my way back to Baker. Since leaving Baker a while ago, I've risen close to 1200 feet (to 2100 feet elevation here), but it doesn't seem like it because the uphill is so gradual. - I always enjoy passing the lava flows along Kelbaker Road just beyond the road to Indian Springs
In addition to the scenery, I also enjoy this stretch of road for the dip here that creates a brief downhill on the way up this gradual 22-mile-long uphill slope. - Time for a break: I pause for a Clif bar at Black Tank Wash along the lava flows adjacent to Kelbaker Road
I'm working up a bit of a sweat, feeling rather out-of-shape and not used to the hot weather and the weight of the 10-ton bike yet. I'm disciplining myself to drink lots of water to stay hydrated, which needs to become habitual on warm-weather trips like this with lots of exertion. I camped once at this location during my 2006 Mojave National Preserve trip. - I'm noticing a lot of white-flowered buckwheats along Kelbaker Road on the way up toward the summit
One probably wouldn't notice these while driving Kelbaker Road in a car. - I keep pedalling slowly up Kelbaker Road, Mojave National Preserve
I've already passed the cinder cones, which are visible behind me. A couple of motorcyclists have passed me and waved, and an oncoming SUV honked and waved as it passed. - I'm almost at the Kelbaker Road summit now, which is marked by the power lines crossing the road
I've been slowly riding uphill for more than 20 miles now, so I've been watching the transmission towers with anticipation as they germinate and grow on the horizon. - I take another break when I reach the coveted Kelbaker Road summit at about 3800 feet
With no direct views back down to the starting point, and some higher hills nearby, it doesn't look like much of a summit up here. However, I have risen nearly 3000 feet over 22 miles since leaving Baker a few hours ago, and my leg muscles are aware of that. While munching on another Clif bar, I check out some of the wildflowers I see in the area. - Orange desert mallow flowers at the Kelbaker Road summit, Mojave National Preserve
I planted one of these in my yard in downtown San José a couple of years ago and it grew into a five-foot bush instead of a one-foot shrublet like this one here. - Banana yuccas getting ready to flower at the Kelbaker Road summit, Mojave National Preserve
These stubby yuccas are seen often at higher elevations in Mojave National Preserve. - Mojave aster flowers at Kelbaker Road summit, Mojave National Preserve
An interesting purple-yellow juxtaposition. - Replenished, I begin the slow 12-mile descent to the Mojave National Preserve Kelso Depot visitor centre 1700 feet below
Some of the pavement here is a bit rough and has been patched many times. - Kelbaker Road drops down toward Kelso and the sand piles of the Kelso Dunes become visible in the distance down in the valley
Today's destination, Globe Mine Road, is situated somewhere on the distant left near the base of the Providence Mountains. The hot and hazy weather of the day is obscuring the view somewhat. - As I reach the floor of Kelso Valley at 2100 feet, I focus on the small group of buildings ahead that is the town of Kelso
I'm having some problems with the strong crosswind here that has almost blown me out into the middle of the road a couple of times. I'm glad there's not much traffic along here, just a few cars per hour. At Kelso, a formerly abandoned, but now refurbished, grandiose 1920s train station called Kelso Depot now serves as a Mojave National Preserve visitor centre. I also keep looking off to the left at the base of the Providence Mountains, trying to figure out where today's destination is exactly situated. I know it's in that area somewhere, but I haven't been there before, so I can't quite place it. - I hang out at the Kelso Depot visitor centre for almost an hour, fill up my water supply, and ask rangers about area conditions
This is my last sure water stop before heading off to the Globe Mine Road area, where a couple of probably-dry springs just might contain water. With salt stains on my face, I make sure my four 1.5-litre bottles, two-litre Camelbak, and 10-litre water bag are full. This 18 litres of water (4.75 gallons) weighs just under 40 pounds (18 kg). Ugh, heavy. I chat with two helpful rangers at Kelso Depot. I had spoken at length with one of them during my last trip and he highly recommended a visit to the Piute Springs area, which remains on my list, but didn't make it into my route for this trip. The other fellow recognizes me because he stumbled across my previous Mojave National Preserve travelogues on the web. - Just before I leave Kelso Depot, I stop to visit the ruins of a house across the road
There are only a few ruins left here at Kelso, which makes it hard to believe that this was a town of 2000 people back in the 1940s. - I begin wobbling up the gentle grade of Kelso-Cima Road away from Kelso Depot up to Globe Mine Road
I'll ride almost four miles up this paved road and climb a little over 400 feet. Nothing too strenuous, but the bike weighs more than it did earlier today and is rather unstable from the extra water I'm carrying. Best of all, I have the strong wind behind me now. - I exchange waves with the conductor of a passing freight train that rises slowly on the tracks along Kelso-Cima Road
These uphill trains are actually quite slow, and it will turn out that the conductor of each train that I pass during this trip will wave. These freight trains can be heard across much of Mojave National Preserve. - I've been riding on pavement all day (almost 40 miles), but this will end now that I've reached the sign for Globe Mine Road
I've passed this sign for Globe Mine Road numerous times on past Mojave National Preserve trips, but never explored the area up that road. - I cross the tracks at Globe Mine Road and it's official: I've just left pavement for a couple of days
I'm happy to be entering the world of new experience now, which is the real reason for this trip. Today's bike ride so far has all been on a route that I've covered several times during past Mojave National Preserve trips. - Just beyond the railroad tracks, Globe Mine Road splits into three unnamed roads
The left (straight-ahead) road heads way up into Globe Canyon, while the two right forks are shorter and lead to different areas near the base of the Providence Mountains. - I choose the right (south) fork of Globe Mine Road
Camp tonight will be somewhere near the end of the middle road. However, I've chosen to follow the south fork because it rises a little higher and might be less sandy. Near the end of the south fork is a "shortcut" road that leads back to the middle fork, which I'll take when I get there. - A garden of white buckwheat flowers and cholla cactus along the south fork of Globe Mine Road, Mojave National Preserve
Still on the alluvial fan, this area is mostly populated by creosote bushes. - This clearing along the south fork of Globe Mine Road is obviously an old site of something and well-used
I'm walking the 10-ton bike most of the way up this road. There's just enough surface sand to make it a bit slippery here and there, so it's just easier to walk a mile or two and enjoy the scenery, though it's tiring on the arms. I'm not in a hurry. Without my heavy load, this slightly uphill road would probably be ridable. Nothing is growing in this cleared area and a small can dump sits nearby. I wonder how long ago it was last used and for what (temporary housing in tents?). - After about two miles, I reach the "shortcut" from the south fork of Globe Mine Road to the middle fork
I turn left here on this short 1/3-mile-long connector "road." I'm almost in the rolling foothills of the Providence Mountains and the Mid Hills now, roughly 900 feet above Kelso Depot at about 3000 feet elevation. - Diminutive phacelia flowers grow in the road on the "shortcut" between Globe Mine Road's south and middle forks
I'm guessing that fewer than one vehicle per day drives this road, so these little flowers end up surviving. - The "shortcut" road dips down into a wash as it connects from the south fork to the middle fork of Globe Mine Road
I find this road to be ridable in places, since it is a slight downhill, but it is quite bumpy, so I take it slowly. - The "shortcut" ends at a junction with the middle fork of Globe Mine Road
This junction is a big sand pit and I have to drag the bike through it while trying to figure out where exactly the middle fork of the road is. - I follow tire tracks up a wash that seems to be the middle fork of Globe Mine Road and drag the bike through the deep sand
I can see a dark, boxy mine structure on the hillside a mile or so ahead, which is where I was hoping to camp tonight, but I'm not making much progress dragging the 10-ton bike through all this sand. - I decide that I don't really need to camp right next to that old mine site, so I pull over here and choose a campsite nearby
The sun is setting, so I'm happy to call it a day, dismantle my rig and set up camp right here. I look forward to waking up here tomorrow and doing a day hike up to that old mine site and beyond. It gets dark and I prepare my first just-add-boiling-water backpacking meal of the trip: Mountain House Beef Teriyaki. Excellent. It's a bit windy tonight, but the wind dies down from time to time to allow silent moments broken only by the rumbling of an occasional train down in Kelso Valley a few miles away. I stay up until midnight to see the late-night moonrise; until then it's dark, dark, dark out here where there's nobody except me, my bike, my tent, and my flashlight. - Mojave National Preserve map, Day 1: Baker to Globe Mine Road
- Making coffee outside my tent near the end of the middle fork of Globe Mine Road, Mojave National Preserve
My first morning of the trip waking up outside in the Mojave Desert. Nice. Silent. Perfect weather: sunny, dry and low 70s perhaps. I'm happy to sleep in late of course, which isn't always possible in the desert in the morning. After all, this is my spring vacation. The morning sun is heating up the tent, but there's just enough wind pushing slightly cool air through the open screens to make it comfortable inside. I haven't seen anyone since leaving the pavement of Kelso-Cima Road yesterday afternoon. That's what I was hoping for. - A bluish-grey moth with subtle peach trim visits my cup while coffee is steeping
This is my first trip using the filterless MSR "mugmate" to make coffee, which works like a big tea bag (the coffee steeps). I'm happy to report that it makes great coffee. I brought a pound of Peet's French roast coffee freshly ground for press pot, which makes my saddlebags smell good. Some small wasp-like insects, as well as a couple of yellow jackets, were also attracted to the vapour of my boiling water and steeping coffee. Other than that, there are very few flies here, perhaps because it's a bit windy this morning. I eat a typical camp breakfast, which is, in addition to two cups of strong black coffee, granola, tamari almonds, dried cherries, dried apricots and some dried rambutan that I'm trying for the first time. - Red cactus flower buds near my tent
I've seen quite a few cactus flowers already on this trip, but these tight red buds have a glossiness that makes them look like plastic. I'm stopping to see if maybe they are just some kind of foreign matter that got stuck to the plant. - Paper-bag bush (aka salazaria mexicana, bladder sage) growing near my tent
A lot of bees are buzzing around the flowers on this neato twiggy bush with almost no leaves. A tiny hummingbird flew up to it as well, but didn't linger, perhaps unable to get any nectar from the flowers. Apparently the bark of this plant is photosynthetic. - It's 13h and I finally get started on today's hike to Tough Nut Mine
My first stop will be the mine remains just ahead at the end of the middle fork of Globe Mine Road (that black box at the bottom of the hill on the right). I walk cross-country instead of up the wash and stumble upon the old road. Hmmm, I thought the wash I came in on last night was the old road. How did I miss this road yesterday? My backpack contains an assortment of the usual items that I carry: two epipens (adrenalin syringes in case of yellow jacket sting), three Clif bars, bag of dried apricots, 1.5-litre bottle of water (in addition to my full two-litre Camelbak), spare empty 1.5-litre water bottle, water filter, flashlight, batteries and sweater). Most of my photos from this mine site are from a second visit here tomorrow. Many of my photos taken today turn out to be overexposed and unusable due to an incorrect camera setting that I haven't noticed yet. - This shaft at the mine site has concrete walls
I'm guessing, due to the poured concrete walls, that this shaft might have been bored later than the other holes in the ground here. - I see what looks like an old road up on the hill above, which is not on my maps
Back to my overexposed photos. I'm finished exploring the Good Hope Mine site, though I could linger much longer, so I'll walk down the gulley and up over that hill as part of my hike from here to Tough Nut Mine. - The old remnant of a road ends here on the crest of the hill at a small mine shaft; I continue walking cross-country
I continue hiking past the end of the road, down into the next wash, then up the next low ridge. I could have chosen a slightly longer, but easier, route that skirts the base of the hills down on the fan, but I like these little ups and downs. I still don't see my tent down there; it must be hidden by some bushes. - From the top of the next low ridge, I look for an easy descent down to the next wash
The Providence Mountains sit behind me and Tough Nut Mine is somewhere between here and there: closer to there. - I walk a quarter mile up the wash, looking for signs of the old road to Tough Nut Mine
The old road should be here somewhere, perhaps just beyond the big hill just ahead.