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- Near those crumbling rock walls is a hole in the hillside
This must have been a mine, or an attempt at starting one. - The 10-ton bike waits for me back on Indian Springs Road
I'm not seeing that old abandoned trailer that I stumbled across last night while hiking cross-country in the dark. It should be over in that direction somewhere; perhaps it's concealed by one of the low mounds that rise up here and there. - Back on the pavement of Kelbaker Road, I begin the slow, easy climb up toward Jackass Canyon Road
I'll crawl almost 7 miles up Kelbaker Road past the lava flows from about 2100 feet here to about 3200 feet. It's about 50 degrees F this afternoon and I'm overdressed for an uphill. I start sweating as soon as I begin pedalling. - 2.5 miles up Kelbaker Road, I make a brief stop at Black Tank Wash to remove my scarf and winter jacket
I'm putting on just my fleece sweater over my t-shirt. My winter coat and scarf were perfect while I was descending Indian Springs Road, but now I'm getting wet from all the sweat, which is not great in cold weather. I camped here at Black Tank Wash during my Spring 2006 Mojave National Preserve trip, but at the time I thought it was part of adjacent Willow Wash. - About 30 minutes later, and another 2.5 miles up the road, I stop at Rainy Day Mine Road to put on a windbreaker
It turns out that my fleece sweater alone isn't warm enough, so hopefully putting my windbreaker on over that will fix the problem. Whenever possible, I prefer to stop at a pull-out of some kind rather than just on the shoulder of the road. This preference has developed as result of past experience out here. Kind desert folks will often stop and ask if you need assistance if you look like you might be having a breakdown and are stranded on a shoulder. Of course, this is an excellent thing when one is actually in need of help. - Dismantling the tent; time to move on and continue my bikepacking trip
I hate to leave Indian Springs; I really like this area. I could easily do another day hike here like yesterday, exploring more branches of the wash. And I know that the next time I come here, the springs will quite possibly be dry, forcing me to leave sooner (unless I come with a motor vehicle or set up water caches beforehand). - Around 13h, I ride down Indian Springs wash, away from my quiet campsite of the past two nights
I haven't seen anybody since arriving here two afternoons ago. Heading downhill from about 2800 feet to about 2100 feet, I'm taking the bumpy road slowly. My bike rack is surely loaded beyond its recommended maximum carrying weight. - A mile or so down Indian Springs Road, I stop to look at some stone ruins in a hillside on the north side of the road
I also make a couple of phone calls on the way here because my cell phone works on this open stretch of road (it didn't work at my campsite). I'm also watching my footprints in the road surface from last night's hike in the dark to see if I can remember exactly where I was. - At the stone ruins off Indian Springs Road
I'm not sure what this is: a mine or a cabin of sorts? - I take a look into the hole that goes into the hillside
I don't walk in. I can feel warm air coming out from the cavern. - Whatever this was, there's practically no mortar left at all between the stones
It doesn't really look big enough to have been a cabin, unless it was just one room. - Bladderpod (Isomeris arborea) flowering and fruiting on the hillside behind my tent near Indian Springs
I like this plant enough that I would try growing one in my yard back in San José if I thought it would tolerate the wet winters back there. - Unidentified alyssum-like plant
I wouldn't be surprised if I know the name of this plant from having studied the native-plant catalogues, but I don't recognize it in its real-life situation. - Looking back down to my campsite from my outhouse with a view
The earth up here on the hillside is hard, dry clay. It would have been easier to dig a cat hole down in the sand of the wash, but the views up here are worth the extra effort. - Before packing up, I head back up to Indian Springs 1/2 mile up the road to refill my drinking-water supply
I still have some water left, but not enough to last another day or two. - Pumping water at Indian Springs
I refill all my containers: four 1.5-litre water bottles, two-litre Camelbak, and 10-litre MSR water bag, all of which weighs almost 40 pounds when full! There will be no water at today's destination: Devil's Playground. The high level of particulate matter in this tiny stream requires that I clean my MSR water filter five times while filtering water due to clogging. - Ice in my water bottles this morning at Indian Springs!
I slept poorly again last night due to the cold and had plenty of weird dreams again, none of which I can remember. I almost got up at 6h due to the cold, but I managed to fall back asleep again. The water bottles with the most ice were the ones I left outside my tent, but there was even some ice in the drinking tube of my Camelbak, which I kept inside. - After 1/ 2 mile or so, I'm relieved to stumble across Indian Springs Road as hoped
I briskly walk up the dark, silent road by flashlight for a distance that turns out to be about two miles, arriving "home" around 19h. - After more walking toward the lights of Baker, I stumble across Indian Springs Road as hoped with a sigh of relief. I see now that I've unintentionally overshot my campsite by circumventing the hills behind my tent. I briskly up the dark, silent road by flashlight for a distance that turns out to be about two miles, arriving "home" around 19h. Tonight's add-boiling-water-to-bag meal is José's Chicken Mole from Backpacker's Pantry. The spicy flavour is satisfying, but it's too salty and not complex enough for my taste considering how heavily seasoned it is--like licking the residue inside of a can of tomato paste. The last time I tried this meal was during very hot weather when the salt content was more welcome. It's cold in the tent and I have no campfire tonight, darn it. Some clouds have moved in and are obscuring the rising full moon; some gusty winds have also moved in. One particularly strong gust lifts up one side of the tent, threatening to overturn it, then sets it back down and lifts up the other side for a few seconds. Fortunately, there's not too much more of that. It might not be as cold as it was last night. Maybe I'll sleep better tonight. - OK, I admit it--I'm lost, but not totally
I unexpectedly see the lights of Baker off in the distance. It seems that Eyeball Rock Wash drains toward Kelbaker Road and not toward Indian Springs Road. - It seems that Eyeball Rock Wash drains toward Kelbaker Road and not toward Indian Springs Road as I presumed. I can see the lights of Baker off in the distance, which makes me think I'm somewhere on the fan between Kelbaker Road and the hills west of Indian Springs. If this is correct, I should be able to hike cross-country northward toward Baker and cross Indian Springs Road soon enough. From there, I will be able to hike up the road to my tent. Good thing I brought my flashlight... It's getting dark fast and the wonderful full moon won't rise to illuminate my surroundings until later in the evening. - I nervously hike cross-country by flashlight toward the lights of Baker, in search of the road back to my tent
If I decide that I'm completely lost, I can walk westward a couple of miles to Kelbaker Road if needed to get my bearings. I come across a clearing that looks like it might be Indian Springs Road, but isn't. - Hiking toward the distant lights of Baker is the only thing that makes sense right now. I cross numerous little drainage dips and hope that I haven't somehow crossed Indian Springs Road without realizing it. Tonight's full moon hasn't risen yet, so I can't see the surrounding hills that I'd probably recognize. A slight clearing looks like it might be Indian Springs Road. I follow it briefly, eastward, but there are no tire tracks, so it can't be my road. I notice a long-abandoned small trailer here; the access road seems to have grown in and no longer exist. This landmark confuses me. I didn't see this trailer while riding up Indian Springs Road yesterday. I must still be far from my road, or completely off track somehow. In the worst case, if I decide I'm completely lost, I can walk westward a couple of miles to Kelbaker Road to re-orient myself. - Dusk is closing in here in Eyeball Rock Wash
I have about 15 minutes of daylight left. I thought I'd be back to Indian Springs Road by now. - I have about 15 minutes of daylight left. I thought I'd be back to Indian Springs Road by now. - Where am I?
Just as it's getting dark, Eyeball Rock Wash empties out to an open area. I don't see Indian Springs Road anywhere around. I'm glad I brought my flashlight; I may need it. - Just as it's getting dark, Eyeball Rock Wash empties out to an open area. I don't see Indian Springs Road anywhere around. I'm glad I brought my flashlight; I may need it. - Sunset near Eyeball Rock
This scenic wash doesn't have a name, according to my maps, but it's worthy of one. I'm going to call it Eyeball Rock Wash from now on. - This scenic wash doesn't have a name, according to my maps, but it's worthy of one. I'm going to call it Eyeball Rock Wash from now on. - A quick stop at "Eyeball Rock," as I've decided to call it, for a photo break
This is one of the more unusual rocks I've ever seen. - This is one of the more unusual rocks I've ever seen. - Desert mallow
The desert mallows around here must be a different species than the one I planted in my backyard in San José. These flowers here tend to close at the end of the day (mine doesn't do that). - The desert mallows I'm seeing around here must be a different species than the one I planted in my backyard in San José. I've noticed that the flowers on these plants tend to close up at the end of the day (mine doesn't do that). - Yet more neato rock layering effects
Chocolate marble layer cake, anyone? - Chocolate marble layer cake, anyone? - Nice views, but there's a really steep drop between here and that wash down there
I'll continue a little further along the ridge - I'll continue a little further along the ridge - This must be an animal trail along the ridge
Until this, I haven't seen any possible signs of people in this area: no footprints, no litter, no trails. - Until this, I haven't seen any possible signs of people in this area: no footprints, no litter, no trails. - Ah! Just beyond the end of the animal trail, I spot a wash worth aiming for on the valley floor
I start my short descent to the wash. - I start my short descent to the wash. - Almost down at my chosen wash!
The wash looks like a road from this distance. - The wash looks like a road from this distance. - Now that I'm in the wash, I just have to follow it all the way down to Indian Springs Road
... or so I think. - ... or so I think. - A big hole dug by an animal in a quest for water
Animal footprints are all around, but no human ones. I wonder if any water was obtained from this hole--there's no water in the hole right now. - Animal footprints are all around, but no human ones. I wonder if any water was obtained from this hole. Moisture in the sand is clearly visible, but there's no water in the hole right now. - Faint pink light in the wash
I'm marvelling at this place because I'm pretty sure that people rarely come back here. It feels untouched. The silence is broken occasionally by light gusts of wind blowing past my ears. - I'm marvelling at this place because I'm pretty sure that people rarely come back here. It feels untouched. The silence is broken occasionally by light gusts of wind blowing past my ears. I almost hate to leave footprints in these pristine suroundings. - Further along atop the next hump
Looking back down toward the Indian Springs wash that I just ascended; nice view. - Looking back down toward the Indian Springs wash that I just ascended; nice view. - Looking to the northwest, I can see another wash that looks like it drains toward Indian Springs
I'll head along the ridges here a bit more and then perhaps descend toward that wash to get back to camp. - I'll head along the ridges here a bit more and then perhaps descend toward that wash to get back to camp. That area in the distance that looks like it might be an ocean is Soda Lake, which is usually dry in the summer months. - I'm partially descending the back (south) side of the ridge to avoid the cold wind on the ridgetop
This takes me out of my way a bit, but it may facilitate reaching my targeted wash, or at least figuring out where I am. - This takes me out of my way a bit, but it may facilitate reaching my targeted wash, or at least figuring out where I am. I'm enjoying the cross-country hiking and the intimate views of more cinder cones. Note the notch in the top of the cinder cone, a result of mining activity. - Heading back up to the ridgetop for a moment
I'm trying to keep track of what's on the Indian Springs side of the ridge as much as possible. - I'm trying to keep track of what's on the Indian Springs side of the ridge as much as possible. - I keep seeing these diminutive buckwheat-like plants
Their reddish-pink blossoms are small enough that that they can be passed unnoticed, yet they look quite bright if you actually take the time to look directly at them. - Their reddish-pink blossoms are small enough that that they can be passed unnoticed, yet they look quite bright if you actually take the time to look directly at them. - Great views across to Soda Lake from the ridgetop
But I'm not yet seeing a good spot for descending back down toward Indian Springs Road. - But I'm not yet seeing a good spot for descending back down toward Indian Springs Road. - So it's down the back side of the ridge again for a short distance to avoid the wind
Now I'm not sure what the best route is; I guess I'll just keep going until I find it. - Now I'm not sure what the best route is; I guess I'll just keep going until I find it. - OK, back up the hill a little again
I think I need to walk over that next saddle behind me to get my bearings. - I think I need to walk over that next saddle behind me to get my bearings. - I climb back down to the wash below
An animal seems to have built a comfortable home in this rock shelter. - An animal seems to have built a comfortable home in this rock shelter. - I feel like taking a different route back to camp, instead of returning the same way I came
I'm in fairly remote territory now; I haven't seen any human footprints for a while. I have almost two hours of daylight left. - I'm going to try walking over a ridge or two and descending one of the other washes in the area instead of the one I came up. It occurs to me that I'm in fairly remote territory now, even though I'm probably no more than three miles from my tent. I haven't seen any human footprints for a while. I have almost two hours of daylight left. It's almost 15h15 now and it will be dark at about 17h. - I start walking up the low ridge to the west of me to get an overview of the area
On the way up, I discover more bones, apparently an animal's spine. - On the way up, I discover more bones, apparently an animal's spine. - At the top of this low ridge, I contemplate my next steps
I find that there is a series of low ridges with gullies between them. I'm looking for the easiest route over to the next hump. - I find that there is a series of low ridges with gullies between them. I'm looking for the easiest route over to the next hump. - Behind me is one of the cinder cones for which this area is well-known
I can see a faint road winding up the side of the cinder cone. Perhaps it leads to one of the old cinder-cone mines; I haven't explored that area. - I can see a faint road winding up the side of the cinder cone. Perhaps it leads to one of the old cinder-cone mines; I haven't explored that area. - "Painted-dot" rock
The dark spot isn't the only interesting feature of this rock; it's also supporting the protruding slab above it. - The dark spot isn't the only interesting feature of this rock; it's also supporting the protruding slab above it. - The tip of one of the old lava flows lies a short distance ahead
I think I'll climb up to it. - I think I'll climb up to it. - Approaching the base of the lava flow from the knoll that it rests on
The edges of the lava flow look rather vertical, and I'm not a mountain climber. - The edges of the lava flow look rather vertical, and I'm not a mountain climber. - I make it almost to the top of the lava and am taking in the excellent views across the Indian Springs area
I can't climb the last eight feet or so to get completely on top because of the lava's sharp vertical edges. - I can't climb the last eight feet or so to get completely on top because of the lava's sharp vertical edges. If I felt like doing so, I could probably persevere and keep walking along the base of the lava and eventually find a spot where I could climb up to the top. - More eroded walls in the wash
This almost looks like it was created by construction equipment. - This almost looks like it was created by construction equipment. - I'm seeing animal tracks all over the place
However, I haven't seen or heard any animals yet, other than a few birds. There are also a few human footprints, so I'm not the only one who has hiked up this wash recently. - However, I haven't seen or heard any animals yet, other than a few birds. There are also a few human footprints, so I'm not the only one who has hiked up this wash recently. - Another trickle of water
I'm surprised to see so many small seeps back here providing a little water here and there. I was expecting the area to be almost completely dry. - I'm surprised to see so many small seeps back here providing a little water here and there. I was expecting the area to be almost completely dry. - The wash forks and gets narrower, then I stumble across these bones
I'm not sure what this was, but it had big teeth! - I'm not sure what this was, but it had big teeth! - I think I'm at Cane Spring, but maybe not; Cane Spring might be over in the next wash
There's a small pool of water here and it looks like the water lasts a while. The plants here are softer than the tougher, drier plants I've seen elsewhere in this wash system so far. - There's a small pool of water here and it looks like the water lasts a while. The plants here are softer than the tougher, drier plants I've seen elsewhere in this wash system so far. I don't have a detailed topo map (or GPS) to check exactly where I am, and I haven't been paying very close attention to where I'm going. One of the easy things about hiking a up a wash system like this is that the route back to the start is easy to figure out (just walk back down and follow any forks that head downward). - Just beyond Cane Spring, I come across more surface ice
It looks like a real stream, but the water here is extremely shallow, perhaps just 1/4 or 1/2 inch deep. - It looks like a real stream, but the water here is extremely shallow, perhaps just 1/4 or 1/2 inch deep. Nonetheless, in the desert, this counts as a water source. - Another one of many splits in the wash
I climb the adjacent hill a little to get a better view. Which fork should I take? - I climb the adjacent hill a little to get a better view. Which fork should I take? I'm making up my route as I go. - Randomly, I decide to head up the rocky right fork
I guess I'm heading toward that lava flow off in the distance. - I guess I'm heading toward that lava flow off in the distance. - The colourful yellow lichen on these rocks is quite painterly
I have to remember to keep an eye open for petroglyphs that are supposed to exist in this area. - I have to remember to keep an eye open for petroglyphs that are supposed to exist in this area. - A little further up Indian Springs wash, I come across another seep and a bit of ice that today's sun hasn't reached, and melted
So, we definitely had freezing temperatures last night. No wonder I was cold while sleeping! - So, we definitely had freezing temperatures last night. No wonder I was cold while sleeping! - I continue up Indian Springs wash
The sandy floor of the wash is quite firm and makes for good walking right now, but it might be much looser and dustier during the drier months. - The sandy floor of the wash is quite firm and makes for good walking right now, but it might be much looser and dustier during the drier months. - More cool rock layering effects
There's so much texture everywhere I look. - There's so much texture everywhere I look. - Erosion along the walls of Indian Springs wash
This environment may be parched, but it's clear that torrents of water run down this wash from time to time. - This environment may be parched, but it's clear that torrents of water run down this wash from time to time. Desert soils don't absorb water very well, so you don't want to camp in a wash if there's any risk of rain, due to the potential for flash floods. - Poor little cactus!
This small barrel cactus appears to have lost its footing in the adjacent hillside and tumbled down to the floor of the wash. - This small barrel cactus appears to have lost its footing in the adjacent hillside and tumbled down to the floor of the wash. - After breakfast, I dig a cat hole up on the hillside above Indian Springs Road
It's so nice to have an outhouse with a view, and nobody around to invade your privacy! I haven't seen anyone since leaving the pavement of Kelbaker Road yesterday afternoon. - It's so nice to have an outhouse with a view, and nobody around to invade your privacy! I haven't seen anyone since leaving the pavement of Kelbaker Road yesterday afternoon. - I pack a day bag and start today's hike by walking 1/4 mile up to Indian Springs to filter the day's drinking water
My bag contains my winter coat, hat, scarf, gloves, toilet paper, batteries for the camera, a flashlight, and my yellow-jacket-sting kit (I'm highly allergic). - I expect to be out hiking for the rest of the afternoon, so I'm bringing a flashlight, just in case. My day bag also contains my winter coat, hat, scarf and gloves for later in the day when it cools off, as well as toilet paper, batteries for the camera, and my yellow-jacket-sting kit (I'm highly allergic). - I refill my two-litre Camelbak and an empty 1.5-litre bottle with water from Indian Springs
I expect to drink most of this during the afternoon. The filtered Indian Springs water has a slight greenish tint but tastes great. - I expect to drink most of this during the afternoon. The filtered Indian Springs water has a slight greenish tint but tastes great. The small stream has a fairly high algae content--enough that I have to clean my water filter a couple of times while pumping this relatively small quantity of water. - With no set destination, I start walking up the wash past Indian Springs and notice some intriguing rock layers
I liked what I saw in this wash when I arrived here at the end of yesterday afternoon, so I'm excited to be exploring a bit further. - I liked what I saw in this wash when I arrived here at the end of yesterday afternoon, so I'm excited to be exploring a bit further. - Late-morning coffee and breakfast (brunch, really). It was cold last night and I didn't sleep so well, and then I slept in late
A typical camping breakfast for me consists of tamari almonds, dried apricots, dry granola, coffee, water and maybe miso soup. I forgot to pack my coffee cup, so I'll drink my coffee out of my plastic bowl. - I had no problem falling asleep last night, but I slept very lightly during the pre-dawn hours and had many strange dreams. At 8h30, I awoke to sunlight, but fell back asleep. Eventually, some sun started shining on the tent, making it comfortable inside, and I didn't wake up again until 11h30. I eat a typical (for me) camping breakfast, which consists of tamari almonds, dried apricots, dry granola, coffee, water and maybe miso soup. One of the first things that I notice on this first morning of camping is that I forgot to pack my plastic coffee cup, so I'll drink my coffee out of the plastic bowl that I didn't forget. - The fire is burning nicely, but it's getting late, so I'm thinking about letting it die down and retreating to my tent
My unexpected Xmas campfire has been a success, and I'm hoping that my first night sleeping in the cold won't be too arduous. - The heat feels great, but it's time to let the fire burn out and prepare for sleeping
How cold will my sleeping bag be? I'm guessing the temperature is in in the mid-thirties (F) right now. Sweet dreams! - Hillside cactus garden at Indian Springs, Mojave National Preserve
A postcard-perfect image from the edge of the lava flows, catching just the right amount of sunset illumination. Could anything be more perfect for Xmas day? - Looking back down the Indian Springs wash toward my campsite
Just behind Indian Springs is a hill that harbours "the Shaman's Cave," according to Bill Mann's Mojave Desert guide. I've climbed up the hill, but I don't see the cave, which doesn't bother me because I'm enjoying the scenery so much. - Barrel cacti catching the last light of day on the hill above Indian Springs
I guess the day is coming to an end... - The sun sets on me at Indian Springs
I start walking back down the wash to my campsite in near darkness. There's a nice sunset over there somewhere. I really like this area and had no idea how scenic it would be. Tomorrow I'll come back up here and do a longer day hike to explore further, and refill my water reserves at the spring. - After supper, at 21h50, it's time to start my Indian Springs Xmas campfire
It's getting a bit late, but I'm cold, and the campfire heat will feel good--if my junk wood isn't too damp to burn, that is. Supper was a Backpacker's Pantry Sweet and Sour Chicken add-boiling-water-to-bag meal. Tasty, but a bit too sweet for my taste (too much dried pineapple). - Woohoo, the fire is starting to burn!
Some of the old newspaper left here was a bit moist and looked like it might not burn enough to get the fire going. - Trying to warm up in front of the fire
Since this is the first night of my trip, I'm not yet acclimated to being out in the cold for an entire evening. An awesome full moon is rising above the hills to light up my surroundings and further entertain me, but it doesn't like being photographed by a pocket digital camera. - I add another piece of junk plywood to the fire
I have several more large pieces of plywood remaining, but I'll just add this one and see how it burns. It's close to bedtime and I don't need the fire to get too big and last all night long. - Indian Springs wash enters a small narrows
This is becoming more scenic than I was expecting. - There are a lot of barrel cacti on the surrounding hillsides, which isn't apparent at a distance
Pretty to look at, but don't touch! - A little further beyond Indian Springs, I notice a side wash that looks interesting
I take a short walk up this side wash to see what it looks like in there. - This rock formation immediately catches my attention
I'm on the edge of the lava flows here, and this rock looks like it's part of that geological complex. - This side wash near Indian Springs gets narrower
I'd really like to keep on walking, but it's time to turn back before it gets too dark. - I notice a little cave up on the hillside on the way out of the side wash
If I weren't running out of time so quickly, I'd climb up the hill and examine this more closely. - Rock layers in Indian Springs wash
It's one rock texture after another up here in this wash. - I continue walking up the Indian Springs wash in the glow of the setting sun
I wonder what's to be seen up here. - After about three miles, Indian Springs Road turns toward the hills up a sandy wash
It's tougher to keep pedalling here and I have to dismount and push the bike ahead occasionally. - About a quarter mile before the end of Indian Springs Road, I notice a fire ring and a possible campsite
I find that I'm now walking the bike more than riding it due to the sand. I'm almost at the end of the road anyway, so this looks like a good spot to call home tonight. - An ugly pile of debris sits on the hillside just above my chosen campsite near Indian Springs
I hate to see our wild lands used as a dumping ground, but amidst the pile of junk are numerous pieces of wood, and even some old newspaper. I see the perfect makings for a campfire later tonight. One of the disadvantages of bicycle camping is the inability to carry extra luxuries such as firewood, so I'm in some ways happy to have found this junk pile. I wish I could burn that metal stuff in the pile too and get rid of it; darn it. - I begin dismantling my rig and setting up camp
Before setting up my tent, I throw down from the hillside the scrap wood that I think I'll burn later. I notice that the small tree here provides a welcome windbreak, so I'll set up camp as close to it as possible. - Camp is set up near Indian Springs!
I'm not quite sure yet what to think of this spot. I generally don't like to camp at locations that are too obviously car-accessible. I'm three miles away from the pavement of Kelbaker Road up a nondescript road, which is good, but the fact that this area has been used for garbage-dumping suggests that it might be more well-known than I'd like. I'm hoping that most family-oriented folks have other things to do on Xmas day than dump their garbage in a remote corner of Mojave National Preserve where I'm camped out. - With an hour of daylight left, I walk up to the end of Indian Springs Road to explore a little
Indian Springs Road ends at those little posts that are Wilderness-boundary markers beyond which travel by mechanized means such as motor vehicles or bicycles is prohibited. - Wow, there's a trickle of water here at Indian Springs
I thought this would be a dry spring, so I'm pleasantly surprised. - There's just enough water at Indian Springs that I'll be able to use my water filter to get extra drinking water here tomorrow
The great thing about this is that I won't have to pack up and go somewhere else tomorrow to get more water (like Marl Springs or Kelso Depot). - The first ten miles of Kelbaker Road into Mojave National Preserve out of Baker looks flat, but it actually climbs 1000 feet
I have a nice tailwind here, so, like a motorist, I'm barely aware that I'm slowly heading uphill. - After ten miles, Kelbaker Road bends sharply away from civilization
It's always at this curve on Kelbaker Road where I start to feel irrevocably part of Mojave National Preserve on a bicycle-camping trip, living out of my saddlebags. - After 13 miles, I reach the little dirt road to Indian Springs and turn off here
The road will dead-end at Indian Springs, some 3.5 miles away. There are no signs at most intersections (except the major ones) in Mojave National Preserve; you simply need to know where your chosen road is. I like this design approach because it keeps the discovery level high for those of us who value that. On my first trip out here, I didn't even notice this road when I passed it. - Indian Springs Road: the road surface is a bit rough and rocky
However, there's plenty of traction for a mountain bike, so far, even one loaded up heavily like mine. - A drainage rut across Indian Springs Road
People before me have placed large rocks in the gulley to ease the ride across this dip. - Leaving the Royal Hawaiian Motel in Baker to start my Mojave National Preserve trip
Decorative deer have been placed under the motel sign to capture some Xmas spirit. The motel rooms in the one-storey structure visible here are not in use because trees have grown into the plumbing system and significant repairs will be needed to make them usable again. - Damage to the corner of one of the motel units
I'm forever amused by the quirks of the Royal Hawaiian Motel. Last night, there was so much wind that it sounded like a rainstorm outside my door. It's not quite so windy this morning, but there's still enough wind to keep the fronds on the palm tree here fluffing about. - The 10-ton bike is packed up and ready to go to Mojave National Preserve on Xmas day
I really needed to sleep in this morning, so I did. After all, this is my Xmas vacation. - Baker's "world's tallest thermometer" says that it's 50 degrees F this morning
Before leaving town, I visit Coco's restaurant for a big, tasty, lumberjack breakfast. I'm surprised that so many restaurants are open here on Xmas day, and Coco's is packed. I'm obviously not the only tourist "stuck" in Baker en route to somewhere else. I also stop at the "Country Store" to buy four 1.5-litre bottles of water and a small bottle of brandy. While still at the motel earlier, I put several litres of water in my big 10-litre water bag and filled my two-litre Camelbak. I think I'm ready to head out now. Judging by the wind blowing this tree's foliage, it looks like I'll have the wind behind me; great! - Leaving Baker on Kelbaker Road and crossing the Interstate 15 freeway to enter Mojave National Preserve
Mojave National Preserve isn't as dramatic, well-known, nor popular, as Death Valley National Park 75 miles north of here. I suspect that most motorists buzzing past on the freeway don't know, nor care, that they're passing one of the country's largest parks. Even the sign at the big thermometer states that Baker is the gateway to Death Valley, without mentioning Mojave National Preserve just on the other side of the freeway. - Freeway traffic behind me now, I enter Mojave National Preserve
The freeway is still not far away, but it's suddenly already much quieter here. I'm starting to get that jittery feeling of freedom that I always get when I start heading out into the vastness here. - My Amtrak bus out of San José leaves me at Stockton, where I transfer to an Amtrak train to Bakersfield
After the 4.5-hour train ride to Bakersfield, I'll transfer to an Amtrak bus to Baker that will take four more hours. The Stockton train station is located in a decayed industrial area that gets very little pedestrian traffic. Heavy metal bars on the train station's windows and doors suggest that it's a high-crime area. - I spend 4.5 hours on the Amtrak San Joaquin train, occasionally staring at the tray-table instructions in front of me
Fortunately, the train serves food, and the chicken burrito is pretty good. Beer is also available, but it's a bit early in the day for beer (for me at least). - The Amtrak bus leaves me at Baker, California at around 20h30, gateway to Mojave National Preserve
I mount my saddlebags and sleeping bag on the bike and ride a half mile down the road toward the Royal Hawaiian Motel, which will be home tonight. - After checking in at Baker's Royal Hawaiian Motel for Xmas Eve, I walk back up the road to get a meal at the Mad Greek
The Mad Greek restaurant at Baker's four-way stop sign is one of just a few non-chain restaurants and shops in town. Mostly, Baker is just a huge freeway service stop for motorists en route between Las Vegas and Los Angeles, oblivious to the existence of Mojave National Preserve. With just one main street and a resident population of about 900, there are nonetheless numerous gas stations, adjoining well-lit convenience stores and uninteresting chain restaurants, as well as three motels. Baker also hosts "the world's tallest thermometer," the tall structure in the photo. It's 50 degrees F tonight, which is much warmer than what was forecast. The unexpected balmy weather is being caused by very high winds blowing warm air in from the south. I hope these winds don't make bicycling difficult tomorrow... The bright light in the sky is not a UFO taking off from Alien Fresh Jerky just up the road; it's the full moon rising. - The Royal Hawaiian Motel is the cheapest motel in Baker, and for good reason (at $49/night it's not exactly cheap, however)
The rooms recall the 1970s and often exhibit various features of obsolescence, such as this out-of-service wall heater and a big stain on the thick carpet. I've stayed here several times now, and each room is a little different. - Even the message telling the visitor that this heater is no longer in use appears to be many years old
The tape attaching the message to the heater hasn't detached yet. - Overview of my room at the Royal Hawaiian Motel
This room still has the original knotty pine ceiling. The ceiling in many other rooms has since been covered up by the kind of faux-wood paneling that adorns the walls here. The power goes out a few times during the evening for a few seconds. I'm left wondering if the power failure is caused by tonight's wind storm or if it's because I'm running the heater in the room. - The stained ceiling in the bathroom tells a story of a shower in the room above that leaked
Perhaps the ceiling still leaks now; the sink in this room is clogged and drains extremely slowly. - The particle-board door on the bathroom has never been painted
This replacement door looks like it was installed years ago, judging by the water stains. - Fluorescent bulbs above the beds (and almost everywhere else) create a retro 1970s fashion
The symmetrical arrangement is further complemented by the landscape painting hung above the beds. It has been a long day of travelling and I fall asleep easily in this quiet place. (Who else spends Xmas Eve in a motel?) - The 10-ton bike and I are ready to leave downtown San José and head to Mojave National Preserve again!
There really are other places in the world to visit besides Mojave National Preserve, but I keep going back anyway. With each visit, I get to know the area better and notice places that I haven't had a chance to explore. It's one of the biggest national parks, vast enough that even Park staff often doesn't know all the nooks and crannies, so I'll probably be going back to the area a few more times yet. - Across the tracks from the Stockton Amtrak station is an old house that looks abandoned, but isn't
The windows of the house facing the tracks appear to be boarded-up (perhaps to block train noise), with iron security bars mounted on top. But the property is well-maintained and I notice some children playing in the yard and entering the house. - My pile of supplies and gear dumped in the spare bedroom the night before leaving home
It's 22h30 and you'd think I'd be ready to leave by now since I leave on Amtrak early tomorrow morning. But this trip wasn't planned; I don't usually do winter bike trips due to the wet weather that's typical in California at this time of the year. I impulsively decided earlier this week to do this trip when I realized that dry weather has been forecast for the Mojave Desert for the next week. I spent much of the weekend doing last-minute errands such as buying a new tent and new front saddlebags, all of which needed replacing after eight years of performance. My new front waterproof saddlebags are from Ortlieb, almost like my old ones, but red instead of dark green. They're not cheap, but they're more than worth the money because they deal with use and abuse so well.