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- Heading across the valley on Ivanpah Road, the road is big, empty and quiet
I enjoy a couple of short breaks on the way up the gentle slope to stand motionless and take in the silence. - A number of datura plants grow on the shoulder of Ivanpah Road
I haven't found a space in my garden for one of these yet. - I stop near the top of the Ivanpah Road hill just before the train tracks to enjoy the views behind me
The top of the hill here sits at about 3500 feet, some 850 feet above the junction of Morning Star Mine Road on the valley floor. The 6.3-mile ride up the hill isn't steep by any means, but it tends to sweaty due to the heat of the valley. - I approach the train tracks that cross Ivanpah Road
This is the same freight-train line that passes by Kelso Depot and which I parallelled on the climb up Kelso-Cima Road several days ago. - The signs behind me warned that the road would turn sharply to the left after crossing the tracks
My destination today, Keystone Canyon, is on the other side of the New York Mountains ahead. Getting there will require more climbing and then riding through a low pass. - A single abandoned house is all that remains here at the former settlement of Ivanpah
I'll make a quick stop here to take a look at the old house, which I didn't do when passing by during previous Mojave National Preserve trips. - A closer look reveals that the front door has been pried open
Apparently, the building isn't under too much surveillance, despite the posted notices. I take a peek inside and it appears that squatters have been living here. - This building...
... is under the protection of the United States Government. - I've read that this house was once used as a general store and is now owned by the National Parks Service
The chimney and old air-conditioner are substantial. Notices are pasted on the boarded-up window openings of the house. - Other outbuildings, such as this antique trailer, are to be found on the property
I take a quick walk around the back of the house before resuming my climb up Ivanpah Road on the 10-ton bike. - I ride another 2.5 miles up Ivanpah Road, climbing 400 feet in the process, and then the pavement ends
The road will pass through some old mining areas during the next couple of miles. - Warning to me: "Rough Road Next 23 Miles"
Three motorcyclists riding down the road wave at me, and I reciprocate. I've ridden this road on past Mojave National Preserve trips, and it is bumpy and washboarded as the sign suggests, but it's still quite drivable in an ordinary car. - I stop to look at a road that leads into the former Vanderbilt Mines area
While passing here, an approaching small van slows down, and the driver gives me a thumbs up and yells, "I wish I could do that!" My ego loves positive reinforcement like this, but I'm really not Superman, even though it may appear that way to the uninitiated. I'm in good, but not exceptional, physical condition. This mine area is another spot that I'd like to take an hour or two to explore, but not today. - A little further, I pull over to eat a Clif bar and enjoy the views; something on my bike has started to rub loudly
The great views over Ivanpah Valley will disappear shortly as I begin to climb between the hills through a pass. It's not immediately apparent why my saddlebags are rubbing against the bike; they haven't come loose. - Once I adjust whatever it is on the bike that needs adjustment, I'll ride up this gentle roller into the New York Mountains
There's hardly any traffic on this road, so I'm just standing here enjoying the quiet. Hmmm... I've just realized that I may find myself standing here a bit longer than anticipated. - Ugh: my rear rack has broken, just above the bolt that attaches it to the bike frame
My trip may have just ended and I might be stuck here? I dig into my bag of bolts to see if there's any way I might be able to make the bike ridable. The weight of my saddlebags is bending the broken rack inward such that it rubs heavily against the rear wheel. I can't complain about the rack itself and I actually give it applause despite my breakdown here. I've abused this tough Old Man Mountain rack by carrying much more than the recommended weight on rough roads over hundreds and hundreds of miles and it still stood up beautifully (until now). To my surprise, the great folks at Old Man Mountain bicycle racks replaced my broken rack after the trip even though the damage was my fault from non-stop overloading. A year ago, while heading up bumpy Gold Valley Road in Death Valley National Park, similarly overloaded with extra water for an overnight stay, the bolt holding the rack to the bike snapped in two, but the rack itself survived fine. - I impress myself and cobble a vertical brace for the rack from two spare support bars that I've been carrying around for ages
Maybe my trip hasn't ended just yet! I'm not sure that these two bars screwed together will hold the rack in place, but my first impression is that it works. Now, should I continue on to Keystone Canyon some seven miles further, or turn back while the bike is still functional? The vertical silver bars constitute my repair; the horizontal silver bar attached to the brakes is part of the normal Old Man Mountain rack installation on mountain bikes. I never thought I'd use these two spare rack-support bars, and certainly not for this unintended purpose. - Well, after my one-hour delay, I've remounted my saddlebags and have decided to continue on 7 miles more to Keystone Canyon
I'm carrying enough water to last at least through tomorrow should I get stranded. Also, there may be water at Keystone Spring. If my repair starts to fail, I'll turn back or try flagging down a passing car, if there is another one, to get a lift back down to civilization, or to Las Vegas where I can get to a bicycle shop. I've seen several cars on this road today, but I've ridden this road before and know that sometimes there are no cars for hours at a time. - As I pedal my way gently up Ivanpah Road on the compromised 10-ton bike, I stop briefly at the little road to Bathtub Spring
My original plan was to ride down this road just to see if Bathtub Spring, near the base of the mountains to the left, has any water to offer. Instead of that scenic detour, I'll head directly toward Keystone Canyon to prevent further possible delays. (There are two springs in Mojave National Preserve named Bathtub Spring.) - Another point of interest to my left on this stretch of Ivanpah Road is an old railway grade, abandoned long ago
I was hoping to get a quick look at the old railway grade close-up while checking out Bathtub Spring, but I won't have time for that after all. - Some of the old railway grade near Ivanpah Road has been washed out
Water drainage rushing down the nearby hills has cut a hole through this part of the old railway grade, which hasn't been maintained in many decades. - I continue rising slowly up Ivanpah Road into the New York Mountains
I haven't seen anybody for a couple of hours now. - I'm almost at the summit of Ivanpah Road now as I enter a low pass in the mountains
It's hard to call this a summit because there aren't any great views down to valleys. Furthermore, higher points in the New York Mountains surround the area. But I am up at around 4800 feet elevation now. - Ivanpah Road passes through a slot in the earth near the summit
Despite the rough road, the repair to my bike rack is holding out so far. I am riding slowly and being careful to rattle the bike as little as possible on the road texture. - It's hard to tell from a distance if this property at Barnwell is still inhabited
The line-up of old cars here suggests that the property is vacant, but who knows... - To my left is the settlement of Barnwell, once named Manvel
At least one of the properties here appears to be still inhabited. Bright-orange desert-mallow flowers like those here have been my chaperone during much of this trip. - Once over "the summit," Ivanpah Road heads straight toward the New York Mountains
My destination today, Keystone Canyon, is somewhere in the lower middle of this view, behind the first low hill in the foreground. - A mile after Barnwell, I turn right on the little road to Keystone Canyon, which immediately splits
The road to the right leads toward Lecyr Well and Trio Mines, where I camped during my Mojave 2000 trip, while the left road leads to Keystone Canyon, and is my road today. Back in 2000, I was also intending to enter Keystone Canyon, but I took the wrong branch of the road, partly because it wasn't on the map I was looking at and I had to guess (incorrectly) which fork to follow. - As a bicyclist, I can choose to ride on either side of the road to Keystone Canyon: do I choose sand or rocks?
I choose sand because it's smoother and I don't want to rattle my damaged bike rack more than necessary. But I can hardly stay afloat in the sand, so I change my mind and try rattling my way up the rockier side of the road. - The sand that I liked for a moment on the road to Keystone Canyon disappears and the road is just rough now
Interesting transitional grassland landscape here, punctuated by scatted joshua trees and junipers. - The road forks again after 2/3 mile and I stay on the right fork toward Keystone Canyon
The lesser-travelled left fork leads to Mail Spring, which I'd also like to visit, but I've never heard that it actually contains water. Tomorrow's goal is to hike to Keystone Spring, which does sometimes have water, up in the mountains to the right. - Some of the bumpy road is ridable, but I walk the bike because something is rubbing again in the area of the rear rack
I tighten a bolt that has loosened, but it doesn't stop the rubbing. I pass a campsite in this open area, but continue dragging the bike onward in the hope of a more interesting campsite further up the canyon. - After about two miles on the deteriorating road up Keystone Canyon, I reach a wash-out
I just passed a second campsite that looks interesting, but I think I'll leave the bike here and walk a little further up the road to see if there's an even better one just ahead. - The old road isn't getting any better as it makes its way up Keystone Canyon!
The tire tracks are fairly fresh and have to be from a high-clearance vehicle to get over some of the dips here... - I don't spot another campsite nearby, so I return to the 10-ton bike back at the wash out
This doesn't look much like a road in places, but it is. Nice view across the desert highlands below: I'm up at 5300 feet now. - I drag the bike over to the nearby campsite and this happy camper calls it a day
Well, I've made it to Keystone Canyon with the ailing bike and I hope I won't find myself stranded here. The fire ring adds a nice touch and I wish I had some wood for a campfire later on. - Time to unpack and set up camp in this high-desert area whose landscape I like so much
Old juniper trees, spiky low banana yuccas (bottom left), pinyon pine trees and four o'clocks (the pink flowers) make this a really pretty place. The last people here even left a bottle of water! Tomorrow I'll hike up to Keystone Spring in the hope that I will find water there. For now I'll try to ignore my bike-rack problem and enjoy the evening. As soon as the sun goes down, the temperature drops a lot, as is expected up at 5300 feet. I change into full-length blue jeans with long-underwear shortly after, and I find myself wearing my wool toque and a windbreaker by 21h. It's really quiet tonight, with no strong evening winds for a change, and everything is so silent. No crickets singing here, but there were a few birds earlier. Supper tonight is Mountain House beef stew (my favourite), with a few tamari almonds and some granola for dessert. As much as I enjoyed the great hamburgers at Nipton the last two nights, my body seems to prefer this backpacker-style food. The knob of my propane burner somehow disappeared today and I had to use my wrench to open and close the valve to boil water for supper. I fall asleep happily in the chilly 40-something-degree air with my toque and blue jeans on. - Mojave National Preserve map: day 10: Nipton to Keystone Canyon via Ivanpah Road
- About 1.5 miles before reaching the Cima Store, I pass that power-line road again that crosses Mojave National Preserve
If my bike rack weren't broken, I could shave a few miles off today's ride (though it would probably take longer) by riding this rough road. A stop at remote Marl Springs, which I visited on my 2006 trip, to filter some water would be a fun diversion along the way. I've ridden various segments of this power-line road over the years, but I've not ridden the part that extends from here to Marl Springs. - The six-mile ride down the Cima Road hill to the Cima Store, 800 feet below, is a blast
On the way down, I pass a small group of police and rangers investigating a car wreck whose driver is nowhere to be found. To my surprise, I have a significant headwind pushing against me as I ride down the hill (there was hardly any wind at all earlier). The views of the Mid Hills straight ahead in the distance make me happy. - To my left while descending Cima Road are views across the valley to the Butcher Knife Canyon area of the New York Mountains
The two nights I spent at Butcher Knife Canyon last week were an enjoyable exercise in solitude and weathering strong winds. - With a bit of sadness, I pack up and leave my Cima Dome campsite to mark the last day of this Mojave National Preserve trip
Breakfast is the usual: two cups of strong coffee, granola, tamari almonds and chili-lime cashews. Packing up is intentionally slow on this nice quiet morning because I want to stay longer. I leave at noon. As I reach the pavement of Cima Road, a camper vehicle pulls in and claims the closest campsite to the road: the first humans I've seen in 24 hours. - Here it is: the final little hill at the top of which is the summit of Kelbaker Road between Kelso Depot and Baker
I feel like I've been pedalling rather briskly all the way up this 12-mile hill. I've stopped a couple of times on the way up, but nothing long enough to constitute a real break, so I'm looking forward to reaching the top! - I arrive at the Kelbaker Road summit at 16h15 and feel a bit pooped
I enjoy a 15-minute break and munch on a Clif bar and drink more water. My water is warmer than room temperature now, blech, but of course I keep drinking freely, to stay hydrated and energetic. - While at the Kelbaker Road summit, I take a look at the power-line road which I could have taken to get here from Cima Road
The segment of the power-line road from Cima Road to here is about 15 miles long, instead of the 31 miles that I rode on the paved roads via Kelso Depot. - I depart the Kelbaker Road summit at 16h30 and the final 22 miles down to Baker is as enjoyable as ever
The slow, almost traffic-free, descent from the 3800-foot summit down to 925 feet at Baker is one of those rides that makes bicycle touring in the Mojave Desert worth the effort. - I'm so zoned-out on endorphins that I didn't even notice the junction of Aiken Mine Road that I zoomed by a few minutes ago
This part of the descent past the lava beds which come close to Kelbaker Road is one of my favourites. I have the wind pushing against me again, so coasting down this long hill isn't completely effortless. - After coming around the last big curve on Kelbaker Road, I have a final 10 miles (dropping 1000 feet) to ride across the valley
The heat of the day is getting to me a little and, as usual, it's hotter down here in the valley. Still, at the end of a two-week bicycle trip, 10 miles isn't any big deal. My water is hot and tastes terrible, but that doesn't stop me from drinking it. - Artless graffiti on the red pavement of Kelbaker Road approaching Baker
It's probably no surprise that this exists fairly close to the I-15 freeway and its plentiful Las Vegas-Los Angeles traffic. Please give us colourful, creative graffiti or none at all. - Almost there...
The freeway-exit town of Baker, California with its motels and excess of fast-food restaurants sits just ahead in front of the mountains. - Just before arriving at Baker, California, Kelbaker Road crosses the I-15 freeway
It's nice to be entering a town of prepared meals, beds and showers for hire, but how badly do I need to see hundreds of passing-through cars and people per hour who are uninterested in the austere beauty of this desert region? - Baker, California has a sort of skyline with its "tallest thermometer in the world" and its motel and fast-food signs
Baker's big thermometer registers 94 degrees, so I'm not crazy after all in thinking that it's a hot day here. - I check in at the Royal Hawaiian Motel for the night, which is an interesting example of kitsch from the 60s or 70s
This motel is a bit trashy, and part of it is abandoned. This is the most interesting motel in Baker with its authentic retro 70s-80s decor. However, the Royal Hawaiian is not for everyone. If you're the fussy type, pay a few dollars extra for one of the "better" motels in town instead and spare us the complaints about the Royal Hawaiian! - Retro 70s furniture in my room at the Royal Hawaiian Motel at Baker, California
After checking in at the Royal Hawaiian, I walk over to Los Dos Toritos, one of the only non-chain restaurants in town, to officially end my trip and start reminiscing over a tasty chile verde plate. After a quiet evening at the motel, the 10-ton bike and I will spend tomorrow on the Amtrak bus and train to get back to San José, the land of employment, mortgages and suburban sprawl. I'll even get to speak to some French tourists at the bus stop here in Baker before I leave. This trip will become another well-earned deposit in the memory chest. - Back on the road at 14h30 to start the climb up to the summit of Kelbaker Road
Over 12 miles, I'll rise from 2125 feet at Kelso Depot to 3800 feet at the summit. It's mostly not very steep, but it does take a while, and the sun is hot. - The climb is going really well, probably because it's the end of the trip and I'm stronger now after two weeks of this
It must be close to 90 degrees this afternoon, or at least it feels like it in the hot sun. - The pavement is wearing out on parts of Kelbaker Road, but that adds to the character of the area (we don't need a freeway here)
I suddenly feel water splashing on my thigh, which feels good in this heat, but I shouldn't be feeling it. The drinking nib has dropped off my Camelbak's drinking hose and water is running out in a small, steady stream. No big deal; I don't end up losing much water, and I just close the valve once I figure out what's happening. One more thing to fix after I get back home, as if living in a fixer-upper weren't already enough! - I'm up out of Kelso Valley now
The views behind me of the Providence Mountains beckon me to stay in Mojave National Preserve a little longer. This photo is from my Xmas 2007 trip; I'm definitely not wearing that windbreaker today! - The Kelbaker Road summit lies just ahead where the power lines cross the road at the left
The last mile or two before the Kelbaker Road summit looks a bit like a moonscape and is always anti-climatic in that no grand views of the surrounding valleys can be experienced here. - I stop in at Kelso Depot to buy a souvenir t-shirt and donate my half-full propane bottle to someone who can use it
I'm not allowed to carry the propane bottle on tomorrow's Amtrak bus and train trip. I chat with the ranger on desk duty, but don't have to bother him to let me in to the downstairs closet again to fill up my water. It turns out that I still have enough water to last until I reach Baker. - Just a few miles to go before reaching Kelso Depot...
Sometimes I'm pedalling lazily, or just letting the bike coast slowly on its own, so I can focus on the views of the distant hills around me. I don't want the trip to end too soon! In the haze ahead stand the Granite Mountains and the Coyote Springs area where I spent two nights last week. The tip of the Kelso Dunes is poking into the right side of this photo. - Mojave National Preserve map: Day 14: Cima Dome to Baker, California via Kelso Depot
- Shadow and stripe
- Before leaving the Bun Boy for my Greyhound bus, I take a final photo out my patio door across I-15 to Mojave National Preserve
I slept really well last night in my cell at the motel. I know they're probably supposed to be decorative, but those two palm trees behind the Bun Boy Motel aren't as alluring to me as what's on the other side of the freeway. Maybe I should come back here again some day... - Hopsage bush and snow
- "The Scream"
- Avian desert-hiker tracks
- Sundown at a tiny dry lake in the Death Valley backcountry
- Last season's prince's plumes blossoms discuss the day's snowfall
- Downfall
- Desert trumpet buckwheats in snow
- Precipitation system approaching
- Desert turret with view
- Martian landscape, Convergence Canyon
- Old survivor
- US Survey 1911
- Tree cover, Middle Steer Ridge Trail, Henry Coe Park
- Split sunlight
- Ridge line
- Pond at Wagon Road/Phegley junction
- Redfern Pond
- A hiker atop the Phegley Ridge Trail "wall"
- Shooting stars
- Lichen rocks
- Mojave National Preserve hiking and bicycle routes, 2010 trip
Bicycle routes in red, hiking routes in blue. - Wild pigs
- A glimpse of the distant Sierra from Steer Ridge on a very gray day
- Map of Death Valley area showing 2007 bicycle routes travelled
- The tent is now set up at Emigrant Campground and the ten-ton bike relieved of its load
For a short while, the light of a gorgeous desert sunset casts its special mood on thoughts of the day's events. - Huff and puff, I finally make it to the Emigrant Campground; my world is slanted here on the fan
This is a rather sparse campground that feels like a big gravel parking lot carved out of creosote bushes plowed down, equipped with a bunch of picnic tables, and with garbage cans and a public water tap on one side of it. The public washroom just down the road is a nice convenience. Though deceptively dull at first, it's actually a really nice location. First of all, being high up on the alluvial fan at 2000 feet allows for expansive views all around, which are especially nice at sunrise and sunset. It's a bit cooler up here than on the valley floor and several interesting hikes or bicycle rides could start from this location into the surrounding hills. Another positive trait is that this is a tents-only campground. - I continue climbing Highway 190, looking for signs of Emigrant Campground somewhere on the fan
I'm hoping that those specks on the centre-right are signs of the campground. It turns out that the ride today up to Emigrant Campground is unexpectedly similar in distance and elevation gain to my slow ride up from Death Valley to Hell's Gate on the way to Monarch Canyon a few days ago. I'm even getting some of that same pain in my right knee on the way up this grade. This is my first real work-out of the trip during such high temperatures (mid-90s). - Looking back down toward Stovepipe Wells on the slow climb toward Emigrant Camp
This seems to be a bit steeper than I expected. Does that mean I'm already almost at Emigrant Campground? It feels like I've already climbed most of the 1000 feet that I've been expecting. However, I'm not so sure that I've covered the full ten miles beyond Stovepipe Wells yet. Is the hot weather playing games with my senses? While pulled over, I get out my map to help me get my bearings. Ha! The problem turns out to be that Emigrant Campground is situated at 2000 feet elevation, not at 1000 feet as remembered by my faulty memory. The good thing is that I'm still lucid and not hallucinating from fatigue; Emigrant Campground is simply twice as high up the road as I had thought. - Heading up Highway 190 toward Emigrant Campground from Stovepipe Wells
I figure that Emigrant camp must be somewhere over there on the fan, since it's just ten miles away. I figure that it should be a fairly easy, but slow ride across the fan, a lot like the first ten miles from Baker up Kelbaker Road, which I've ridden several times during past bicycle camping in Mojave National Preserve. - I leave the heat of Stovepipe Wells and head up Highway 190 toward Emigrant Campground
The warning sign reminds me to turn off air-conditioning for the next 20 miles in order to avoid overheating. Since I only have ten miles left to go, I'll hopefully avoid the overheating problem. - The ten-ton bike takes a rest at the Stovepipe Wells general store
The themometer here reads 95 degrees F, so I'm thrilled to be at a store where I can get cold drinks. I devour two bottles of ice-cold Sobé grapefruit drink and two bags of potato chips. I tend to dislike salty food in real life, but bicycle trips, especially in hot weather, often alter my taste buds temporarily. I take a $4, much-needed shower at the motel across the road and replace the warm water in my Camelbak with some cooler water from the tap outside the Stovepipe Wells Motel. I visit the Stovepipe Wells ranger station and consider taking a camp site at the ugly RV campground behind the general store. However, I learn that it has already closed for the hot season, when there aren't so many visitors. Camping isn't allowed in this part of Death Valley except in designated campgrounds, so my only choice is to camp at the Emigrant Campground 10 miles up the road (unless I want to ride a lot further than that). - A plaque on the side of the Stovepipe Wells general store
It commemorates the original "Bungalette City" that was built here. - Arriving at the town of Stovepipe Wells at 100 feet below sea level
Stovepipe Wells consists of an old motel complex, a general store, an RV campground, and a ranger station. It's definitely in the 90s here today, the hottest day of my trip so far. - Along 190 crossing the floor of Death Valley
This area is called "Devil's Corn Field." - After the descent down Daylight Pass Road, I cross Death Valley on Highway 190
Highway 190 dips down below sea level as it crosses Death Valley on its way to Stovepipe Wells on the other side. Stovepipe Wells is that cluster of buildings at the foot of the mountains seven miles straight ahead. It is quite hot down here today. - Daylight Pass Road passes through some low hills as it approaches the valley floor
I hate it when these seemingly endless, amazing downhill rides actually do come to an end! - Getting closer to the bottom of Death Valley
I'm probably about 1000 feet above the valley at this point. - Daylight Pass Road approaches the Death Valley Buttes on its way down to the valley floor
I'm noticing that it's significantly warmer here than it was up in the mountains this morning. That probably means that it's a rather hot day down below. I'll find out soon. - Further down Daylight Pass Road, heading toward Death Valley
Somewhere around Hell's Gate around 2000 feet elevation. - Back on pavement
Starting back down Daylight Pass Road through the Funeral Mountains toward Death Valley below. Feeling lazy and a bit tired today, and really enjoying flying downward, I find myself wondering how I managed to pedal my way up this grade two days ago. - I've made it up over the hump on Chloride Cliff Road on the way out of Monarch Canyon
Life will be fun and easy for a while. I begin the ride down from here at around 3700 feet elevation to Death Valley, which is a bit below sea level. - On the road out of beautiful Monarch Canyon
After a short walk down the canyon to take a few photos that I missed yesterday after my film ran out, I'm finally on my way. On the way out, I pass a couple in a large pick-up truck coming down the road, the first people I've seen in two days. It turns out that they are headed up toward Chloride Cliff and didn't realize that they made a wrong turn down Monarch Canyon Road. I encourage them to continue to the end of the canyon to see it, since it's so short and scenic, before returning to their route on Chloride Cliff Road. - One last glance at the campsite before dismantling it and leaving Monarch Canyon
It's nice to wake up to Monarch Canyon. I consider staying another day and doing another hike in the area, or riding to Beatty, Nevada, because I like it so much up here, and there's even drinking water available for me if I choose to stay. But there's so much more of Death Valley National Park that I'd like to see on this trip, so I move on. Even though the sun hasn't completely made it into the canyon yet, the chill that I experienced yesterday morning is missing, which makes me think that it might be quite warm down in the valley below. - The cold I caught last night is pretty bad, but I'm up by 8h making coffee anyway; today I pack up and leave Devil's Playground
I'm expecting a long day, with several miles of walking the bike. Two good, strong cups of coffee are in order in addition to my breakfast of assorted dried fruit, granola, tamari almonds and vitamin-C drink. - Enjoying the views down to Cowhole Moutain and Soda Lake, I ponder camping another night here at Devil's Playground
It's quiet and still this morning. I have enough water to get me through the night, but there's nowhere around here where I would be able to refill my reserves tomorrow morning. Oh well, time to pack up and move on... - The last items to remove are the large rocks that I placed inside the tent last night to keep it from blowing over again
I'm carrying a number of cold-weather items on this trip to help me survive the evenings, and this has made my load a bit bigger than during my warm-weather Mojave bikepacking trips. - I like the patterns that my sleeping pad has imprinted on the sand through the floor of my tent
With all the sand that blows around down here at Devil's Playground, traces of my campsite should disappear fairly soon. - The bike all packed up, I begin the 5.5-mile trek down Old Kelso Road along the east side of Devil's Playground
Here's a sandy stretch (with some of my footprints from yesterday's hike) that's a wee bit too sandy for riding the bike, but I can see some firmly packed gravel just ahead that should be good for riding. - Old Kelso Road occasionally crosses dry washes where it is suddenly rocky instead of sandy
This little wash crossing here would be fun on an unloaded mountain bike, but the 10-ton bike slipped in the loose gravel here and lost traction. I'm sweating a bit already, so I'm not wearing a sweater. - I pause on Old Kelso Road to admire the views back toward Cowhole Mountain, Soda Lake, and my campsite of the last two nights
This road was graded many years ago, judging by the pile of rocks along the left side of the road. Creosote bushes have grown in the right-of-way since then. The surface here is nicely packed and rides well. - I like this slightly downhill part of Old Kelso Road that heads toward the Old Dad Mountain block
... because it's slightly downhill and because it's a well-packed surface for riding. This road is otherwise mostly a slight uphill. - Long and straight, Old Kelso Road heads toward the power lines that I can see three miles ahead, where I'll enter Jackass Canyon
The riding is slow, but going well here. However, I presume that I'll encounter more soft sand somewhere ahead. After all, this is Devil's Playground! - I stare intently at the Old Dad Mountain block as I pass by, wishing I had enough time and water to do a day hike here
An orange post here marks an official Wilderness boundary, beyond which cars and bicycles are technically prohibited, but people obviously just drive around it. There's probably a nice campsite up there. - A bit further down Old Kelso Road I notice another Wilderness marker that people drive around and ignore
There's probably a nice campsite at the end of this "illegal" road too, nestled against Old Dad Mountain. Too bad this road wasn't kept open as a "cherrystem" into the Wilderness like many others. - Old Kelso Road has proven to be more rideable than I expected, but this final part before the power lines is a bit rough
It's bit uphill on this stretch, so I end up walking the 10-ton bike again. Old Kelso Road would be a fun mountain-bike ride for someone not carrying so much gear! - Near the end of the slow 5.5 miles on Old Kelso Road, I stop for an energy bar and take in a final glance at Devil's Playground
It has been a fun couple of days down here and I'm glad I made it this time. I wanted to visit this area during my Mojave trip this past spring, but skipped it because it gets incredibly hot down here once the warm weather starts. - Tire tracks go everywhere at the end of Old Kelso Road where it meets Jackass Canyon at the power lines
It's hard to tell exactly where the road is at first, but one easily joins up with the Jackass Canyon Road after a few minutes. - Entering Jackass Canyon from Devil's Playground, Mojave National Preserve
This part of the Jackass Canyon Road is rideable, and there's even a bit of old pavement here and there, hiding under the dirt. However, I was here on my Xmas 2007 Mojave trip and know that a couple of miles of this road will be hike-a-biking. - Nice wiggly tire track behind me as I ride slowly up Jackass Canyon Road from Devil's Playground
I again stare longing at the dark Old Dad Mountain bulwark at right, wishing I had enough time and water to explore more in this area today, while I'm here. - A final glimpse of the Old Dad Mountain block as I get on with the trudge up Jackass Canyon
The occasional day hikers who climb Old Dad Mountain sometimes park over by the power-line towers and climb up the back side of the mountain. - I try riding the worn-out paved track along the wash to avoid the deep sand and gravel in Jackass Canyon
This marks the start of two or three miles of mostly unrideable gravel in Jackass Canyon. I travelled Jackass Canyon during my Xmas 2007 Mojave National Preserve trip, so I know what to expect this time. - The faded paved track to the left is rather washed-out and grown-in, so I abandon it and return to the gravel of Jackass Canyon
Time to get those arm muscles working by dragging the 10-ton bike. Bicycling isn't always all about leg work! - Another old residual-pavement road rises out of Jackass Canyon, this time on the south side of the wash
I follow the faded road up a small hill and look back down behind me to the wash. Jackass Canyon is really scenic, but I'm so busy with the work of travelling that I'm not appreciating it as much as I could. - At the top of my little hill, I now get to ride back down the old paved road and return to the gravel of Jackass Canyon
It has been a brief, but fun, detour out of Jackass Canyon, and it has probably saved me a few minutes of dragging the 10-ton bike through gravel. - Back in the wash of Jackass Canyon: more sand and gravel ahead!
It's slow work travelling here, and I keep telling myself that I'm getting better at it. On this stretch of road, it would be easier to backpack than bikepack. - I take a lot of short 30-second breaks to stop and enjoy the scenery in Jackass Canyon
I have no choice, really. My arms aren't nearly as strong as my legs, so pushing the 10-ton bike through so much gravel is starting to fatigue me. I eat another energy bar (yummy cherry Larabar). - After another half hour, the gravel is finally thinning out and it looks like I can try getting on the bike and riding again
There will be a bit more gravel ahead, but not much. I am able to pedal my way, at a slow speed, up most of the gentle grade ahead in upper Jackass Canyon. - Approaching the top of Jackass Canyon, finally!
The last 1.5 miles to the top of the canyon road is pretty easy, compared to the last hour-and-a-half of hike-a-biking. - Up out of Jackass Canyon for good, I'm now on the plateau, heading toward Mojave National Preserve's famous cinder cones
Time to put my sweater on. I have 1.5 miles to ride on this nice flat road (slightly downhill, actually) before reaching the pavement of Kelbaker Road. I can't take this road too quickly due to the slippery sand, but it's a fun ride. - Hey, sunset is spinning its wheels faster than I'm spinning mine, and I haven't quite reached Kelbaker Road yet
I was hoping to reach the Mojave National Preserve's Kelso Depot visitor centre before it closes at 17h, but I guess that won't happen. - Here it is: Kelbaker Road, Mojave National Preserve, approximately 3100 feet elevation; pavement again, I'm so excited
I'll make a right-turn here and start the ride to Kelso Depot. Straight ahead on the other side of Kelbaker Road is Aiken Mine Road, a 20-mile-long dirt track that I rode a few months ago for the first time. - Riding up Kelbaker Road in the sunset is pleasant; of course, it helps that there is no traffic, which is often the case
For some reason, I'm feeling energized now; must be today's energy bars kicking in. I have 600 feet of elevation gain ahead over the next 3.5 miles and a slight tailwind cheering me on for moral support. - My cheap digital camera picks up some of the glowing pinks and blues of this Mojave National Preserve sunset
Still pedalling heartily up the gentle hill here on Kelbaker Road, thinking about places over yonder that I've visited, and some which I haven't been to yet. - I'm enjoying the fleeting sunset along Kelbaker Road as I slowly approach the summit, looking back to the cinder cones
A few joshua trees grow along this stretch of Kelbaker Road, which are especially picturesque at sunset. - Darkness sets in as I arrive at the summit of Kelbaker Road at 3700 feet, ready for the 12-mile descent to Kelso in the dark
It's chilly up here, so I stop to put on my outer shell and warmer gloves for the long downhill ahead, which is a lot of fun. I'm a bit cold when I reach the bottom.
I arrive at Kelso Depot visitor centre at 18h, an hour after closing, hoping that they've left the garden hose outside (but they didn't). However, staff is still on-site and offers to fill my water bottles so I don't have to fuss around with the small sinks in the 24-hour washrooms in the parking lot. A huge thank-you for that!
I'm invigorated by the long downhill ride, but still rather pooped from all the hike-a-biking earlier today. After Kelso Depot, I ride and walk the bike almost two miles up the fan on Cornfield Spring Road and set up camp at a spot where I camped a few months ago.
I was hoping to set up camp a mile or two closer to Cornfield Spring in preparation for tomorrow's hike, but this will do just fine. I'm hungry and can't wait to eat supper, which is 800-calorie Mountain House Chicken and Rice: very soothing.
The cold that I caught last night is still with me. I can't tell if my aches are from the day's exercise or not. It's a tad colder here than it was at Devil's Playground, so more layers of clothing go on as the evening progresses. I fall asleep easily, but don't sleep all that well.
Recorded temperatures at Baker, CA today are a high of 63F and a low of 32F.
- Sunny skies this morning, but raindrops from last night's thunderstorm glisten on the roof of my tent
A pleasant, but chilly, last-morning-of-the-trip. Pleasant enough that I almost forget I have a cold; cough, hack. Or maybe I'm just used to this cold after living with it for a week. - I make my last two cups of strong coffee of the trip and enjoy the views while I procrastinate the task of breaking camp
I lazily consume beef jerky, granola, tamari almonds, dried fruit, and vitamin-C drink for breakfast again. The nearby power lines are buzzing loudly again this morning. - As I pack the tent's contents into my saddlebags, I remove the big rocks I placed inside the tent to keep it from blowing away
I do bring tent stakes with me, but rarely use them. Desert terrain tends to be too crumbly or sandy for stakes to help much with holding a tent down. - It's that everything-out-of-the-tent moment again; time to leave the Kelso Dunes area!
I like this area west of the Kelso Dunes and would like to come back to explore more. A vehicle or two may have driven by on the power-line road yesterday while I was hiking Bull Canyon, but I haven't seen anyone since I passed Kelso Dunes two days ago - After packing up, I carry my saddlebags and bicycle down to the power-line road for final assembly
I've done plenty of bikepacking, but have only backpacked once. I'm glad I'm not carrying my heavy load on my back, but backpacking can sometimes be easier than bikepacking, depending on conditions. - The 10-ton bike reassembled, I'm ready to put my helmet on and start riding up the Kelso Dunes power-line road
Actually, I won't put the helmet on just yet. I first have to walk the bike through the sandy area ahead, but once it becomes rideable, then the helmet will go on. - Off the Kelso Dunes power-line road, I notice vehicle tracks going past a Wilderness boundary marker
Cars and bicycles are prohibited in official Wilderness areas, but the signage is generally absent or so weak (a non-descript metal post in this case) that accidental trespassing should be expected. - I cut over from the power-line road to Kelso Dunes Road and make a stop at the washroom near the dunes trail
The nice thing about this is that I didn't have to dig a cat hole this morning! - The last couple miles up Kelso Dunes Road is enjoyable with the view toward Providence Mountains in my face
Plus, the road was recently graded, so the usual sand and washboard has departed. I'll turn left at the stop sign ahead and start riding down the hill to Kelso. - At the end of Kelso Dunes Road, I start riding down the paved Kelbaker Road, with the Granite Mountains behind me
After hiking Bull Canyon yesterday, I want to return to the Granite Mountains and poke around more. - I have 8 miles of downhill on Kelbaker Road before I reach Kelso, but a strong headwind is slowing me down
I've had a strong headwind going down this hill several times in the past. Bicyclists hate it when they have to pedal downhill! - As I head down Kelbaker Road, I glance to my right at the Providence Mountains, where I hiked a few days ago
"West Edgar Canyon #3" is roughly in the centre of the photo while Rex Mine is off at the left edge. - Coming up to the "big bend," I can now see the town of Kelso down in the distance
The headwind intensifies as I get further down into Kelso Valley. I'm pedalling quite a bit just to maintain 12 miles per hour as I head down the hill. - I stop for a moment when I pass the unmaintained Vulcan Mine Road
I haven't been up this road yet, but I was thinking that it might provide good access for hiking canyons in the Providence Mountains. However, Eric told me that he tried it and ran across a lot of deep drainages when hiking across the fan up in that area. - Approaching Kelso, I see a freight train in the distance with a lot of red cars
The Kelso Mountains and Old Dad Mountain rise in the background. - Arriving at Kelso Depot visitor centre, Mojave National Preserve
I haven't spoken to anyone since two days ago when I last stopped here, so I'll stop in and report on my Bull Canyon hike. - Kelso Depot is receiving a lot of visitors today due to the long weekend (Thanksgiving)
I still have enough water left to get back to Baker later today, so I don't have to ask for access to the basement utility closet for a water fill-up like I usually do. I donate my unused propane, since I can't take that back home with me on Amtrak. - I've taken this photo several times in the past with the 10-ton bike under the Kelso Depot porch
At the visitor centre, I chat with staff and buy another local history book. Hillary helps me identify the rabbitbrush in Bull Canyon, and offers a plant list. The copier dies, so she faxes it to herself as a way of making a copy. Great idea, and thanks!! - After the nice break at Kelso Depot, it's time to start the 12-mile climb up to the Kelbaker Road summit
Though long, it's an easy climb at about 2-3% grade most of the way. - For some reason, I always enjoy the climb out of Kelso toward Baker on Kelbaker Road
Part of the reason for this may be that I usually ride this hill at the end of a trip, when I'm at my strongest and most enthusiastic. - I pause on the way up Kelbaker Road to eat an energy bar and look across Kelso Valley toward the Mid Hills
From here, I can squint and see numerous locales that I've visited during previous Mojave National Preserve trips. I like the Mid Hills area over there in the distance, but skipped it on this trip due to the cold weather at the higher elevations. - Heading toward the Marl Mountains as I climb Kelbaker Road out of Kelso, Mojave National Preserve
Scenery-wise, this is probably my favourite part of the westbound Kelbaker Road climb out of Kelso. When the road reaches the Marl Mountains ahead, it bends to the left (northwest). - 20 minutes later, I'm around the bend on Kelbaker Road, with the Providence Mountains further and further behind me
The pavement is quite worn-out on this section of Kelbaker Road (and many others). - Up, up, slowly up Kelbaker Road, Mojave National Preserve
Only a couple of cars pass me while I climb the Kelbaker Road northwest out of Kelso. On the other hand, Kelbaker Road south of Kelso has quite a bit more traffic. - As I get closer to the Kelbaker Road summit, the moon rises behind me
... and the sun is starting to be hidden by the Kelso Mountains on the west side of the road. - I reach the Kelbaker Road summit at the power lines just after 16h and stop for a quick energy-bar break
Although I'm up at 3700 feet elevation here, downward views are largely obscured by the hilly terrain of the area. - I put on my windbreaker for the easy 20-mile downhill to Baker, and off into the sunset we go
I've done this Kelbaker Road descent around sunset quite a few times now, and always enjoy it. - I catch the red rays of sunset as I pedal down Kelbaker Road toward Baker
Though it is downhill, it's not steep and I have a light headwind, so I am pedalling to get some extra speed. On the fastest stretches, I still only attain 25 miles per hour. - It's still and silent as I ride into the sunset on Kelbaker Road
Air whooshes past my ears, my knobby tires hum relaxedly, and the 10-ton bike rattles lightly as it absorbs surface imperfections in the old paved road. No cars here, the road is mine. - Sunset fades into dusk, then darkness joins me while I enjoy the final 12 miles of the ride into Baker
At Baker, I check into the Wills Fargo Motel, take my first shower in 8 days, then eat a copious Mexican supper at Los Dos Toritos. During tomorrow's Amtrak trip back to San José, I'll burn few calories, for a change. Another awesome trip completed! - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Devil's Playground to Cornfield Spring Road via Jackass Canyon and Kelso Depot
31 bicycle miles (several miles walked) and 2739 feet elevation gain. - Bicycle route from Devil's Playground to Cornfield Spring Road via Jackass Canyon and Kelso Depot
31 bicycle miles (several miles walked) and 2739 feet elevation gain. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Kelso Dunes area to Baker via Kelbaker Road
48.9 bicycle miles, 2195 feet of elevation gain, 3730 feet of elevation loss. - Bicycle route from Kelso Dunes area to Baker via Kelbaker Road
48.9 bicycle miles, 2195 feet of elevation gain, 3730 feet of elevation loss. - OK, everything out of the tent, it's time to pack up and leave!
I've been awake since 8h (I didn't get up for another hour), taking the morning slowly and lazily. Two cups of strong coffee and my usual camp breakfast of granola, tamari almonds, dried fruit, with the extra addition of pine nuts and beef jerky this morning.
After three enjoyable nights here on Cornfield Spring Road, I don't feel much like leaving. There are certainly more hikes I could do from here.
- Despite the near-freezing overnight temperatures, I'm shirtless and sweating a bit as I pack up in the warm morning sun
Everything is nicely crammed into my saddlebags and I'm ready to reassemble the 10-ton bike and move on. - The 10-ton bike slithers down Cornfield Spring Road at 5-7 miles per hour toward Kelso Depot
It's an easy, slightly downhill ride, not quite two miles long, but rocks and stretches of loose gravel require that it not be taken too quickly with a loaded-up bike. - As I approach Kelso, I see an RV driving up the paved Kelbaker Road
Cornfield Spring Road almost joins Kelbaker Road just ahead, but it instead turns right and parallels it for the final quarter-mile to Kelso Depot. - The final part of Cornfield Spring Road, which is shared with the road to Rex Mine, is quite sandy
I see some footprints here, and they might be mine from when I walked the 10-ton bike up this stretch three days ago. - Just before reaching the real pavement near Kelso Depot is an old washed-out road that was once paved
Perhaps this was one of the original roads in the town of Kelso, no longer needed. - My long stop at Kelso Depot was a lot of fun, but now it's time for the gentle 8-mile climb up Kelbaker Road to Kelso Dunes Road
I'm feeling fresh because I haven't been on the bike in a couple of days. The uphill grade is mostly 2-4% and I ride most of it at about 7 miles per hour with a slight tailwind to help me along. I've ridden this stretch of road several times. - On my left as I climb Kelbaker Road are the Providence Mountains, where I hiked the past two days
If I have my bearings correctly... Cornfield Spring Canyon is at the left where the ridgeline dips a little; Rex Mine is the tiny hill in the middleground; and West Edgar Canyon #3 enters the mountains at a slightly dark area to the right. - On my right as I climb Kelbaker Road, the usually vivid Kelso Dunes pale in the murky light of the cloudy afternoon
I'll camp somewhere beyond the dunes tonight. On this busy holiday weekend (by Mojave National Preserve standards), I expect the three official campsites near Kelso Dunes will have been taken by the time I get there. - It looks like a tarantula was run over by a car here on Kelbaker Road
I wonder where the rest of it ended up... This road gets a fair amount of traffic, and it does move quickly. - My 8-mile climb up Kelbaker Road ends when I reach Kelso Dunes Road, at about 2800 feet elevation, and turn right
A few miles straight ahead are the rocky and scenic Granite Mountains. I'll be visiting a new-to-me canyon in the lower Granites tomorrow (Bull Canyon), but I haven't explored much in the upper part of those mountains yet. - As I start down Kelso Dunes Road, I pause for the views across to Devils Playground and the Old Dad Mountain area
I camped over there almost a week ago. In a few minutes, a view of the Kelso Dunes will replace this one. My cell phone works here, so I send a text and change my outgoing message so people know I've made it this far. - With the setting sun in my eyes, I ride more quickly than usual down Kelso Dunes Road because the surface has just been graded
I've never seen Kelso Dunes Road so smooth; it's usually quite washboarded with a bit of surface sand. It is slightly downhill, but due to the bad surface, I never come close to reaching 20 miles per hour like today. - It's that time of day again when the Mojave Desert sunset briefly illuminates everything in its own special way
Riding down the freshly graded Kelso Dunes Road with the Providence Mountains behind me... - I make a quick stop at the Kelso Dunes outhouse at the base of the official hiking "trail" up the dunes
In bright sunlight, you immediately know the Kelso Dunes here is one big sand pile, but in this light it's not so apparent. - A few moments after visiting the Kelso Dunes outhouse, it's time to dismount again and check out the lighting effects behind me
The Providence Mountains always look good in the ever-changing light of sunset. - It turns out that the final mile of Kelso Dunes Road has not been freshly graded, and is the usual sand and washboard
Here at the end of Kelso Dunes Road, I take the right fork past "the campsite with a tree," but the campsite has already been claimed, as expected on a long weekend. - I take a very short break at the end of Kelso Dunes Road, enjoying the pink Providence Mountains, to consider my camping options
The official campsites here by the dunes are all taken. I suppose I could camp right here in the turn-out along the road like some other folks I just passed, but it's rather exposed, and I don't want to be overhearing their conversations all night. - One possibility is to stash my bike behind a creosote bush and walk my belongings into the adjacent Wilderness area
I could camp back there invisibly, but I'd still be within hearing distance of the other campers and I don't want that. It's amazing how far sound travels in the quiet desert, maintaining its clarity. - I decide that the best choice is to simply leave Kelso Dunes and its campers behind and head west down the power-line road
This way I'll be closer to tomorrow's hike in Bull Canyon. This was my original plan anyway, but I was planning to arrive here earlier and be well past Kelso Dunes before sunset - Sunset on the Kelso Dunes power-line road is nice, and the road starts out being OK for riding
I've never been down this road west of the dunes before, so I'm not sure where I'll end up camping. I'll keep my eyes open for potential good spots. A jackrabbit darts across the road. - The Kelso Dunes power-line road is getting sandy, so I'm now walking the bike a bit; time to find a campsite!
My campsite criteria: not too visible from the road, not directly under the transmission lines, not in a drainage wash in case of rain, and preferably high enough up to have a bit of a view. Not fussy, am I? - Hmmm... maybe there's a campsite for me on the raised rocky area to my left?
I leave the 10-ton bike at the road and go for a walk to see if there are any flat, non-rocky spaces up there wide enough to accommodate a tent. At first it doesn't look promising (too many big rocks). - Success! I found one flat, wide-enough, non-rocky spot above the road, so I'm back at the bike to dismantle it and set up camp
I bring the saddlebags, two at a time, to the campsite, which is about 100 feet from the road. I carry the bike to my campsite (off-road riding is not allowed, even in a non-Wilderness area like this), and set up camp in the dark.
Some clouds float around during the evening, often muffling the brilliant almost-full moon. The white ceiling over the desert casts a mysterious light on the Kelso Dunes, which are visible from my campsite. I can see for miles tonight.
The quiet evening is often interrupted by the loud whooshing of strong winds above in the adjacent Granite Mountains. The forlorn howls warn of a possible wind storm tonight, but, here at my campsite, most of the wind is just a big noise, not a physical force. Only occasionally does the wind actually touch down, and when it does, it lacks the violence of the gusts I can hear overhead. This is one of the more mysterious sounds heard in the desert.
Supper is Mountain House Beef Stew, one of my favourites. As the evening progresses, several extra layers of clothing go on, and a few swigs of brandy add extra warmth.
- I spend two hours at Kelso Depot, longer than expected, chatting with staff and a couple of bicyclists on their way to Las Vegas
It's always good to speak to Preserve staff to see what they can share about areas you plan to visit. I dump my trash, refill my water supply for the next two days from the basement utility closet, browse the art exhibit in the downstairs gallery, and buy a local history book from the book shop.
The bicyclists I've met here are a lot of fun. They rode from Portland, Oregon to Los Angeles, and are now near the end of their trip, always hungry of course. We chat and eat at The Beanery lunch counter, hoping that some day they'll start serving home cooking like they used to.
I forget to take photos, so I'll use one from later in the trip.
- Elevation profile of bicycle route from Cornfield Spring Road to west of Kelso Dunes by bicycle
16 bicycle miles and 900 feet elevation gain. - Elevation profile of bicycle route from Cornfield Spring Road to west of Kelso Dunes by bicycle
16 bicycle miles and 900 feet elevation gain.