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- This Claret-cup cactus is comfortable growing on a rock overlooking the Cima Dome expanse
It's usually quite windy up here, but I guess the cactus doesn't mind. - We pass another blooming Claret-cup cactus along Teutonia Peak Trail as we descend
There's that patch of junipers again, just ahead. - Teutonia Peak Trail bends and heads toward the northeast
Our gaze is now fixed on Kessler Peak ahead; the minivan is parked down in the valley well in front of that. - Desert sages along Teutonia Peak Trail pick up the pre-sunset orange glow
Under regular sunlight, they look more blue-purple rather than their present pink. - We turn around for a moment to look back toward Teutonia Peak
The orange sunset casts an almost psychedelic lime-green aspect on this Banana yucca. - Rock outcrops and irregular joshua trees create endless visual interest on the high plain between Teutonia Peak and Kessler Peak
We've lucked out catching sunset while on Teutonia Peak Trail; we didn't specifically plan our hike this way. - Kessler Peak soaks up as much of the reddish light as it can
I've camped in this area several times and the sunsets up here are typically memorable. - The lower part of Teutonia Peak Trail was once an old road, as is visible here
It's not quite camouflage, but Sarah's orange and green outfit fits in perfectly with the desert sunset! - Heather pauses to look at another one of the giant joshua trees along Teutonia Peak Trail
How many centuries old is this one? - We're almost back at the minivan when we pass one last Desert four o'clock blooming in the sunset
Sarah and Heather, thanks for takinq me along on this hike, it has been great! We drive back to Mid Hills campground on the washboarded roads and all settle in for our final evening there. Supper is Mountain House Jamaican Jerk Chicken and Rice, yummy. We had a good, scenic hike, but it wasn't even 4 miles, so I'm not physically tired for a change. I'll appreciate that when I pack up and leave tomorrow. The strong winds have moved on, so it's incredibly still and quiet here tonight. I love the desert when it's like that. I hear some noise by my tent just before going to sleep, probably a kangaroo rat or a jackrabbit... The heavy chill of recent nights is absent, so my sweater and long underwear in the sleeping bag almost feel too warm. - My final morning at Mid Hills campground, I hear a noise outside my tent, and guess who it is?
Mr. or Ms. Cottontail! The morning shade from the juniper tree is so nice, and has allowed me to sleep in until 8h30! - The cottontail rabbit hears me and looks over my way before darting away
I see quite a few cottontails out here, but they're usually gone before I have a chance to grab my camera. - After four great nights here at Mid Hills campground, I pack up; a strong gust of wind blows my tent over once it's half empty
Last night was not as chilly as the previous nights, so I slept really well. After my usual camp breakfast of dried fruit (apricots and pineapple), granola, coffee and vitamin-C drink, I'm ready to get going. - I've procrastinated all morning, but I'm finally packed and ready to leave Mid Hills campground
I always hate leaving this place, but I'm looking forward to the next stop on my trip: Pinto Valley. Sarah and Heather have already left; they're on their way to Joshua Tree Park next. - I always enjoy the expansive views across Round Valley while riding down Wild Horse Canyon Road
The fact that I'm coasting downhill makes it fun, as well as beautiful. However, I'm carrying a full load of water (18 litres), which makes the bike rather heavy. - At the end of Wild Horse Canyon Road, I turn left on Black Canyon Road for a couple of miles
It has been all downhill so far, so this hasn't taken long at all! - An old wooden fence along Black Canyon Road that burned in the 2005 brush fires has been replaced by a wire fence
That's Pinto Mountain in the background. Today's destination, Pinto Valley, is behind that, not all that far away. - I pause along Black Canyon Road to take a look across the valley to Table Top Mountain
In the foreground are low-growing daisy-like fleabane flowers, with an expanse of orange Desert mallows behind them. - I zoom in for a better look at the expanse of orange Desert mallows in this part of Round Valley
How many orange flowers here? Millions? in some lighting situations, a field of Desert mallows can look rather brown, but right now it looks quite quite orange. - Now it's time to ride down "The Shortcut Road" between upper Black Canyon Road and Cedar Canyon Road
I always enjoy this rough mountain-bike road, which starts out not so roughly. I rode this on the way to Mid Hills campground. - The "Shortcut Road" is only 3/4 mile long; soon enough, I'm approaching Cedar Canyon Road, that horizontal line ahead
Pinto Mountain straight ahead was a nice hike last year, but today I'll turn right on Cedar Canyon Road, backtracking my route from a few days ago. - Oooo, land for sale on Cedar Canyon Road
I check the small change in my pockets and continue riding past. - Cedar Canyon Road east of the Mid Hills is mostly unpaved, except for this short stretch by a cattle guard
Not much of the old pavement remains... - Since I'm in no rush today, I decide to take a short detour over to Government Holes, that big tree up the dirt road here
It's just a 1/4 mile in off Cedar Canyon Road, yet I've never stopped there during the many times I've ridden by. - This sign near Government Holes used to say something about private property
... until the 2005 brush fires passed through Round Valley. So many Desert mallow flowers. - Well, this is it: Government Holes, Mojave National Preserve
A water tank, a corral, an old cottonwood tree and a history story about a shoot-out here 100 years or so ago. The funny thing is that there's a modern plastic water reservoir hiding inside that metal cistern. - I park the 10-ton bike and walk over to the Government Holes corral, next to which a cistern full of green water glows
The cows in the background keep an eye on me in case I decide to take some of their water. This water could be filtered and made safe for drinking, but fortunately I'm carrying a full load of good water from Mid Hills campground. - The corral at Government Holes, Mojave National Preserve
The hills in the background are adjacent to the Mid Hills campground, where I spent the last four nights. - Some of the old fencing at the Government Holes corral is made of unhewn wood posts with metal horizontal members
The cows continue to keep an eye on me. I guess they want their cistern back. - OK fat bovines, I'll leave you alone and let you get back to your green water
I walk back up the road a short distance to the Government Holes cottonwood tree, where I left the 10-ton bike. - A substantial bird's nest up in the Government Holes cottonwood tree also watches me
Anyone home up there? - I ride down an old alignment of the Mojave Road that will arrive at the Bert Smith Rock House after about 1.5 miles
Open views all the way across to the New York Mountains. I'll be riding further out that way soon... - This little piece of dirt road is a good mountain-bike ride, if you like sagebrush flats
... and I do. The road rolls a bit and is slightly downhill, losing about 150 feet elevation. - I wasn't planning on revisiting the Bert Smith Rock House today (I was here last week)
... but since I'm passing by... - Gotta love the view toward the New York Mountains from the front windows of the Bert Smith Rock House
Yes, the front door to the house is still unlocked today, though I've been told it isn't supposed to be. - There's something so luxurious to me about the solid wood interior of the Bert Smith Rock House
No ugly wallpaper, no crappy carpets sucking up dirt... - A warning note above the fireplace in the Bert Smith Rock House
... from a former resident of the house. The problem with interesting isolated buildings like this is that they can attract all kinds of people, not always the good kind. - I go for a walk around the Bert Smith Rock House property, which I didn't do on my visit here last week
Just down the hill from the house is an old can dump. No garbage collection out here! - Before I leave the Bert Smith Rock House and ride over to Pinto Valley, I refill my Camelbak
It's a warm day, but not really hot. I've consumed close to two litres of water already since leaving Mid Hills campground. - I leave the Bert Smith Rock House and coast down the hill into Watson Wash
Down in Watson Wash, I'll pick up New York Mountains Road, that squiggle down there. - Here I am at the beginning of New York Mountains Road
There's Drum Peak in the New York Mountains poking up in the distance. - The first part of New York Mountains Road slowly climbs out of Watson Wash
It's not steep, but with some slippery sand accumulation on the road, plus the weight of my gear and water, I decide to walk a short segment here. - New York Mountains Road passes the eastern tip of Pinto Mountain on a very gentle uphill
I also pass a few private residences along here. - A snake crosses New York Mountains Road, Mojave National Preserve
I avoid him, and hope that he doesn't get run over by a car. - I reach a fork on New York Mountains Road and veer to the left on the lesser path toward Howe Spring
In 2009, I did a mountain-bike ride out to Howe Spring, so I'm already somewhat familiar with this route. Nice area, looking forward to spending a few days out here! - This purple sage stands out along Howe Spring Road since this part of Pinto Valley is mostly dry grassland
I can see the pinnacles of the Howe Spring area ahead. Soon I'll be home for the night! - Howe Spring Road is rather rough in places, but nothing that a high-clearance can't take care of
Being slightly uphill, it's a slow mountain-bike ride, but scenic, enjoyable and not difficult. - Ah, another crossroads! The right fork leads to Howe Spring, the left to Bathtub Spring
I take the left fork. It's apparent from the tire tracks here that some motor vehicles do come out this way, though I haven't seen any yet. - I pass a big boulder alongside the road to Bathtub Spring
This area of the northern Mid Hills, where they merge into the New York Mountains, is full of boulders and small pinnacles. - I arrive at the end of the road toward Bathtub Spring
A row of posts here identify the beginning of the official Wilderness area, beyond which no mechanized vehicles, including bicycles, are permitted. I've been told that there's a nice campsite just off to my right. - Ah, there's even a fire pit here, which doesn't look like it has been used in a while
I'm not carrying any wood with me to make a campfire, but someone left a big pile of twigs here that I could burn. A campfire here might spread into the grass though... - I go for a walk in the adjacent rock piles to get familiar with the area around my new campsite
I'll stay here a few nights. I've brought water with me, but I've been told by a generous source that nearby Bathtub Spring has water this year (this isn't the same Bathtub Spring that I passed while hiking a few days ago). - Time for my evening meal; I'm hungry! Mountain House Sweet and Sour Pork with Rice, predictably tasty
Occasional strong winds interrupt an otherwise tranquil evening. A few flies flit against my tent. Other than a distant glow of light from Las Vegas, the sky is black, the stars are out, and I can see the Milky Way. I get to sleep around 0h45 and wake up many times throughout the night, perhaps from the wind, but have no problem falling back asleep each time. It's nice to be starting another chapter of this trip. - A sandy wash near my tent makes for a nice place to dig my morning cat hole, but of course I won't disturb this chia sage
I woke up many times last night with weird dreams, none of which I remember. Perhaps it was the occasional strong winds that woke me. I was tired enough that I fell back asleep easily. - Light clouds moved in overnight, attenuating the morning sun and allowing me to sleep in until 9h30, wow!
It's cool and breezy this morning, and quite comfortable inside the tent as I munch on breakfast: the usual granola, almonds, dried fruit, vitamin-C drink and instant Starbucks coffee. - The wind has picked up again, so I place large rocks inside my tent before leaving on today's hike
I don't want the tent to blow over while I'm gone for the day (which has happened before)! Tent stakes don't work very well in most desert soil, which tends to be either too hard or too soft. - I've been hearing occasional bluejay chirps all morning
There s/he is... - The Five Springs hike begins and I pass a blooming Goodings verbena as I walk away from my campsite
I've narrowly missed much of the spring flowering season here. Some areas of the Mid Hills and New York Mountains have a lot of these verbena flowers earlier in the year. - A couple of bluejays perch on a burned tree, watching my tent
Thank you, please defend my tent against any possible intruders while I'm gone hiking! - I start by walking up the road toward Howe Spring, spring #1 of 5 on today's hike
A few old junipers survived the 2005 brush fires here, even though much of the vegetation burned. - Approaching Howe Spring, I notice some old scrub oaks growing back from their burned structure
Turbinella oak (Quercus turbinella), I believe. - The old cistern at Howe Spring is dry, but there is some water in the adjacent hole in the ground
It looks like this was a well-maintained spring once upon a time. - The water at Howe Spring is quite stagnant!
A water filter would probably make this safe to drink, but I'm glad I've brought sufficient water with me today (6 litres). - I continue walking up the wash beyond Howe Spring toward the top of one of the forks of Butcher Knife Canyon
About 3/4 mile ahead, I'll start heading downhill. I've previously hiked the lower part of Butcher Knife Canyon, but not the upper area, so I'm excited. - I relax at the top of Hill 1751-T above Butcher Knife Canyon and try my cell phone before hiking down to the sandy wash below
I get some reception here at 5720 feet elevation, just enough to send a text message. I should have better reception later on around at the bottom of Butcher Knife Canyon. - The hike down into Butcher Knife Canyon starts off as a small, rocky drainage
Prior to the 2005 brush fires, this area would have been quite green and shady. - A few yellow Groundsel flowers and orange Desert mallows brighten up the burned area here
I wonder if these plants would have grown here before the 2005 brush fires... - Upper Butcher Knife Canyon just looks like a bunch of sand at first, but many little pincushion flowers grow here
Probably Chaenactis fremontii. - An instant later, I arrive near the top of Butcher Knife Canyon and start the downhill hike
I visited Butcher Knife Canyon back in 2008, but only hiked the lower areas. I'm looking forward to seeing the upper part of the canyon on the way down. - A little further down Butcher Knife Canyon, a green carpet covers the sandy ground
It's going to get greener as I descend further down the canyon. - I've just reached the really green part of Butcher Knife Canyon
I haven't seen another person today, so all is quiet, except for the wind. I think I can hear a trickle of water somewhere nearby. There's a reason that these plants are so green, despite being in the Mojave Desert! - Aha, a trickle of water passes by these Mimulus bushes (Monkey flower) and their yellow flowers in upper Butcher Knife Canyon
Water in the desert! - There's enough water here in upper Butcher Knife Canyon that the stream channel is quite brushy
Suddenly, hiking is becoming much slower as I attempt to avoid the densest brush. I encountered a rattlesnake in this canyon when I hiked here in 2008. - The stream in upper Butcher Knife Canyon is not big, but it is constant
Its gurgling is a soothing sound. - As much as possible, I try to walk along the rocky sides of Butcher Knife Canyon, instead of through the thick brush
I find myself often going from one side of the creek to the other because the canyon walls are too steep. - On the other side of Butcher Knife Canyon, I find myself on ground too steep (again), and have to climb back down to the stream
Hiking always looks easier on the other side of the stream, no matter which side I'm on! - Nice, a little pinyon pine growing on the side of Butcher Knife Canyon
After the brush fires of 2005 killed so many of these around here, we need more of these young ones. - I come around a bend in Butcher Knife Canyon and get my first view out toward Cima Dome
I'm hitting another loose section of rock on the side of the canyon here, so I have to climb back down. - I have more patches of brush to cut through or circumvent here in Butcher Knife Canyon
I'll cross over to the other side of the stream to see if I can avoid this. - I've seen a few penstemons blooming here in Butcher Knife Canyon today
Palmer's Penstemon. - I climb up some rocks, but it's a dead-end, so back down to the Butcher Knife Canyon stream I go
It's an easy staircase to climb down, with a trickle of water running in one of the crevices. - I'm getting close to the mouth of Butcher Knife Canyon now
...but I do have to climb back down to the stream again. - There's enough water at this spot in Butcher Knife Canyon for a small pool to form
This is the same rocky area where I saw a rattlesnake on my 2008 Mojave National Preserve trip. - This is my official photo of Butcher Knife Spring, spring #2 on today's five-spring hike
Of course, I passed the actual spring source a while ago further up Butcher Knife Canyon without noticing it. - Exiting the mouth of Butcher Knife Canyon, erosion in the sand shows that there's quite a bit of water here from time to time
...but not today, not in late May. - I'm finally out of Butcher Knife canyon and walking down an easy-to-hike sandy area
It's always nice to find water in the desert, so the peaceful hike in Butcher Knife Canyon was enjoyable and leisurely. However, it took more time than I anticipated. - A few verbenas are still flowering in the mouth of Butcher Knife Canyon
Gooding's verbena, the last of the season. - The road up to Butcher Knife Canyon is just outside the Wilderness boundary, beyond which vehicles are prohibited
I'll make a left turn just ahead and start hiking cross-country toward Cottonwodd Spring, spring #3 on today's hike. - Ah, an old Gordon's dry gin bottle...
There are some small, defunct mines in this area, so it was once lightly inhabited, at least temporarily. - I hike across an area with a lot of Fremont pincushion flowers
I remember this area, and these Fremont's pincushion flowers, from my hike here in 2008. - Cottonwood Spring is only a bit more than a mile away
It's off to the left in the slot in front of the low mountain ahead. - Burned joshua trees are scattered across this plain, but fragments of the old juniper forest survived the 2005 brush fires
On the other side of upper Ivanpah Valley are the Ivanpah Mountains, which I haven't explored, and the Clark Mountain Range pokes up in the background. - There's quite a bit of Paperbag bush growing on the burned plain between Butcher Knife Canyon and Cottonwood Spring
Salazaria mexicana, a very cool plant. - I'm always happy to pass flowering Desert sages (Salvia dorrii)
Even if they're not flowering, they still smell great. - Other animals before me have carved a bit of a path in the stiff blackbrush on the the plain
It's impossible to hike here in a straight line due to the brush, and occasional cholla cacti. - There's never a shortage of rock formations to amuse one's eyes while hiking in the Mid Hills and New York Mountains
This one might be a bird, with its head drawn in toward its body, just barely poking out. OK, I've been out here for almost two weeks now, and I'm starting to see things... - I locate the stream that emanates from Cottonwood Spring and start following it upstream
I'm not seeing water yet, but there is enough residual moisture for one to know that water was flowing here recently. - I arrive at what appears to be the source of Cottonwood Spring, spring #3 on today's hike
I check my GPS and realize that I must be at a nearby seep, and not at Cottonwood Spring itself. Well, it has water, so I'm happy to see it. - I figure that I might as well walk over the hill to the real Cottonwood Spring as marked on my maps, since I'm in the area
I find a bit of moisture there too, but not a whole lot. - My next goal is to climb over those hills and arrive at the Cabin Springs area, spring #4 of the day
Cabin Springs is a bit more than 1.5 miles cross-country away over these hills. - Part of the hillside leaving Cottonwood Spring is covered in sagebrush, and a few pinon pines
I seem to have a bit of an animal trail that I can follow here, at least briefly, which makes hiking easier. - I stumble across a small prospect above Cottonwood Spring, Mojave National Preserve, not marked on my map
Apparently, no valuable ore was discovered here, since there's no mine immediately nearby. - One of the hilltops between Cottonwood Spring and Cabin Springs is topped with numerous flowering cacti
Probably Opuntia basilaris (Beavertail cactus). - The hills between Cottonwood Spring and Cabin Springs are high enough to provide great views
...and the hiking is steep in places too, though not quite as difficult as I expected. - This open hillside in the Mid HIlls boasts a few delphiniums and Desert sage flowers between the junipers and pinon pines
There's even an orange Desert mallow blooming here! - Hmmm... a pink ribbon tied to a tree branch, marking a hiking route in this remote part of the New York Mountains
... and here I thought I was the only one who had ever hiked here. Perhaps the animal-trail fragments I've been seeing here and there have been used by humans more often than I thought. - More awesome zoom-in views across Ivanpah Valley from the hills between Cabin Springs and Cottonwood Springs
Some of the brown stuff down there is Ivanpah Dry Lake, near Primm, Nevada, where I started this trip 11 days ago. - I'm on a little plateau now, headed toward the Cabin Springs area
This area of mixed joshua-juniper forest was spared by the 2005 brush fires here, and is still green. Typical scenic rocky New York Mountains landscape. Beautiful and serene. - That rock outcrop on the ridge line at far left looks like a hawk's head
I see two eyes and a beak. Do you? Gotta love the Mid Hills and New York Mountains for this kind of scenery. - This views down the hill toward Cima Dome across upper Ivanpah Valley are quite nice
... of course! - I keep looking at the hawk-head rock formation as I walk past the hills near Cabin Springs
One could easily spend a couple of hours just there, climbing the rocks. - I reach a sandy wash near Cabin Springs, so I walk down it briefly
I keep checking my GPS so as to not go too far. - More rocky ridges near Cabin Springs
The ridge line here is much more jagged, and probably less accessible, than in the Butcher Knife Canyon area where I hiked earlier today. - I arrive at a stream flowing down from Cabin Springs and follow it for a short distance
Cabin Springs, spring #4 on today's hike. I wish I had more time to continue upstream and explore Cabin Springs, since this is my first time here. But it's already almost 16h30. - It's past 16h30 now, and I realize I have to climb up over the ridge and skip a side trip to Live Oak Spring
This was going to be a six-springs hike, but I guess it will just be five. A steep 600-foot climb up over the ridge here will get me over to the other side of the mountains where I'm camped. - To my surprise, out here in the middle of nowhere in the New York Mountains, I come across a rock cairn
After studying my maps a few minutes ago, I concluded this would be the easiest route over the trail-less ridge. I guess the others who came here before me would concur with that! - The hill above Cabin Springs that I need to climb is fairly steep
I hope I don't run into any impassible spots. I realize that with all the rock accumulations around here, I might have to take a detour at some point. - I have good footing on this hill, but have to be careful not to get to close to those yuccas in case I slip!
Yucca leaves are like pointy knives! - Just look at the rocks and keep climbing upward!
...and be careful where you put your hands, in case of snakes... - More rocks, and even a few old fallen trees, to climb over on the way up the hill above Cabin Springs
No major obstacles yet! - As I reach the top of a rock staircase above Cabin Springs, the views begin to open up behind me
The temperature is a pleasant mid-70s F today, and the shade here in the juniper forest is helping to make the uphill climb here easier than I expected. - I'm getting closer to the ridge, near one of the spires that tower over the Cabin Springs area
I was down below looking up at these rock formations a short while ago. - As I get close to the New York Mountains ridge, I can now see all the way across Ivanpah Dry Lake in the distance
When the hills are steep, it only takes a few minutes for the views to change significantly. It's very rewarding. - I reach the crest of the New York Mountains; my world suddenly changes with views to the other side
In the distant right are the hills around the Mid Hills campground, where I just spent four nights. Flat-topped Table Mountain is unmistakable over on the left side of Round Valley. - The route back to my Pinto Valley campsite will be cross-country, with lots of little ups and downs
I still have about four miles of hiking ahead of me. I start by dipping down into a shady wash, which I follow for a hundred feet or so. It's easy to imagine a vigourous stream of water here in the sand. - I cross over to another small drainage, then follow it uphill a short distance
I need to cross over the hill on my right, so I don't follow the little wash too far, as tempting as it is. - The wash I'm following enters a semi-moist, shady area, so I climb up out onto the hill alongside it; where to go next...
I didn't map out this part of the hike very well, so I'm spending a lot of time guessing to best cross the endless little hills and dales on the way back to my tent. - I find myself on a open area of the New York Mountains from which my eyes can follow Black Canyon Road across Round Valley
I've ridden that road many times on my bicycle, both in daylight and darkness, but I've never seen it before from this perspective. - I check the GPS and decide to head for the slot between those two hills, then turn slightly to the left
I've been constantly checking the GPS during the past half hour, since this area is rather confusing with its constant ups and downs. - From here, I can see all the way to the Providence Mountains if I zoom in hard enough
I was hiking down there a few days ago. - After another GPS check, I see I need to climb over this little hill ahead, to the left of the pinnacles
With the impending sunset, the lower areas between hills are starting to be in shade. Bathtub Spring is somewhere over there! - I'm almost back to Pinto Valley, but not the part where I want to be (Bathtub Spring)
So instead of walking down the sandy drainage here, I continue cross-country to my left, over another hill or two. - OK, Bathtub Spring should be over that way, beyond the hills just to my right
It would be fun to deviate from my plan and explore those pinnacles over there, but I'm hoping to get out of these hills and back to camp by dusk. - I start hiking over and around this pile of rocks, aiming at Bathtub Spring
The most direct route over to Bathtub Spring looked too steep on my maps, so I decided to try this slightly longer one. In this rugged landscape, it can be hard to tell exactly where one is: the GPS unit really helps a lot! - From this hill, I get a good look at the back (north) side of Pinto Mountain, part of which I hiked last year
It's so much more rounded in this view, compared to the eroded escarpments that one sees on the other side from Cedar Canyon Road. - I'm between a few hills, and I should find myself overlooking the Bathtub Spring area once I reach the top
I find myself hiking rather briskly now, in a race with the fading daylight. I have to be careful to not be too inattentive in my haste; this is not a good place to break an ankle! - I get a decent view from these hills of Drum Peak as the sun goes down
My tent should be down there somewhere in the middleground, though I can't locate it. - I start my final descent for the day, into the little valley where I should find Bathtub Spring
Bathtub Spring should be up there where the sandy wash starts to disappear in front of the hills. - I arrive at Bathtub Spring at sunset, which is not the same Bathtub Spring where I hiked last week
Two springs in Mojave National Preserve are called "Bathtub Spring", not far from each other, so this one is sometimes referred to as "Bathtub Spring Mid Hills," to differentiate it from "Bathtub Spring New York Mountains." - Despite some algae, the water quality here at Bathtub Spring is quite good this year, but my MSR water filter is having problems
A reliable source told me to expect good water here this year, and I thank them greatly for that! I filter a couple of litres of water in the fading sunlight before returning to camp and ending the day's hike. - My camera and I catch some nice sunset colours on the way back to my tent; I arrive around 20h15
A really windy evening; silence alternates with strong wind gusts that hit my tent hard. Supper around 22h is Natural High Honey Lime Chicken with a bit of wild rice, which is tasty and slightly tart, but a bit on the light side (only 400 calories when I eat "both" portions [it supposedly serves two], not quite enough for a hungry hiker). Silence arrives suddenly around 1h and then I fall asleep. A beautiful day finally ends. - The wind wakes me up at 5h15, in time to see the sunrise, but it's too early for me, so I go back to sleep
Being a late sleeper, it's a treat to see a sunrise like this once in a while. However, I've been tossing and turning all night, so now that morning has broken, I'm ready to sleep! - After a few more hours of sleep, I'm up and enjoying the surprisingly warm morning here in Pinto Valley
The typical chilly wind up here is completely absent this morning. Therefore, the sun bakes me in my tent as it rises higher. The heat makes me feel like I've woken up at a hotter lower-elevation area somewhere else. - After breakfast and coffee, my task is to walk the 3/4 mile over to Bathtub Spring and filter more drinking water
A few Wallace's woolly daisies (Eriophyllum wallacei) and some Desert sages (Salvia dorrii) grow in the old road, which is now an unofficial trail. - A claret cup cactus grows in a boulder pile near Bathtub Spring, Mid Hills, Mojave National Preserve
The cactus stays dry up in the rocks while water flows down the sandy wash during wet times. - I arrive at Bathtub Spring and find quite a few of these little white butterflies playing in the moist area by the spring
I've seen these around Mojave Desert springs before, possibly Northern White-Skipper butterflies. - There's not much surface algae in the basin at Bathtub Spring, but there is a lot of heavy, slippery growth deeper in the water
It's harder to scoop out of the spring basin than I expect; much of it slops back into the basin as I try to scoop it out! - I get on with the business of filtering enough water for a couple of days from Bathtub Spring
My MSR Sweetwater filter is having problems again, acting like the filter is clogged, even though the filter is quite new. I think I'll replace this with a different brand of water filter for my next trip. - I persevere with my ailing MSR water filter and manage to fill my water bag with clean, tasty water from Bathtub Spring
This big 10-litre MSR water bag is great, but it does impart an unpleasant plastic taste to water left in it for a few days. I'm glad my water filter hasn't completely stopped working (I've brought chlorine tablets in case that happens). - Time to go for a bicycle ride, without the added weight of all my camping gear!
I take a short break by a juniper tree in Pinto Valley. I see a car in the distance (not in the photo), the only one I'll see today. Some wind has kicked in, and it no longer feels like a hot day. - Back on a road, I ride for a while, then stash the bicycle in the brush and go for a hike to a rocky area
There's a lot to look at here, in addition to the scenery itself. - Graffiti
- Patterns
- Butterfly
- After a bit more hiking, I arrive at more rocks
- Flower
- Squiggles
- Bird
- Tic-tac-toe
- Bulb
- Sunshine
- Smoke
- Cactus
- I pass some yellow-flowering bushes that I don't see often
Keckiella antirrhinoides (Chaparral Bush-beardtongue) - Close-up of Keckiella antirrhinoides (Chaparral Bush-beardtongue)
I planted one of these in my garden several years ago, but it got covered up by some nearby plants and didn't make it. - Helicopters
Hmmm... A pair of helicopters flew over me while I was hiking in the Providence Mountains last week as well... - I've seen so many of these Mojave ground squirrels on this trip, but never manage to photograph them
They scamper away so quickly; I'm surprised that I've managed to get this shot. - There's a lot of private property in some parts of Mojave National Preserve
- My favourite part of the ride back to camp is passing through Pinto Valley's sagebrush patches
The New York Mountains backdrop helps too. - Strong winds have picked up during the afternoon, blowing in some end-of-day haze
The great thing is that the wind is behind me, assisting my ride across Pinto Valley. - I take a look behind me and see that the haze is thicker than I thought
I can barely see across the valley to the Hackberry Mountains. From the look of it, I'm guessing this is Los Angeles automobile smog. It wasn't here this morning when there was no wind. - Sunset at Pinto Valley inevitably results in another tent-advertisement photo
Back at camp, the final day of bicycling without my gear has ended. I'm really looking forward to tomorrow's New York Mountains hike as this trip slowly approaches its end. - The jays are still hanging out in the trees near my campsite at sunset
I've noticed bluejays there often, and they were quite noisy this morning. I guess they're always there, and perhaps they've lived here for generations. - Sundown at Pinto Valley means it's time for my evening meal; I'm really hungry
My tent bangs around in the evening's strong winds. Supper is Backpacker's Pantry Chicken Cashew Curry (why do I keep buying this?) which is better than I remember, probably because I didn't eat enough today. I normally hang my flashlight lantern from the ceiling of my tent as a reading light, but the swaying of the tent in the wind is causing the light to spin around; I almost feel seasick after a while! I step outside after dark for a short walk and notice a mouse. He's moving really slowly; perhaps he's cold! Around 1h15, I finally go to bed, tired of thinking, reading and writing in my journal. To my surprise, I fall asleep easily, despite the noise of the wind. - Sleep, I don't want it to end!
But I have a nice hike ahead of me today in the New York Mountains, so it's time to start thinking about trying to get up. The wind this morning is keeping the tent cool inside, making it easy to sleep in late. - Breakfast this morning is a hot meal, not my usual routine of granola, dried fruit and nuts
Mountain House Beef Stew, one of my favourite add-boiling-water-to-bag meals. I fear it might be a heavy start to the day, but it turns out that I really need a bigger meal than usual. - Today's New York Mountains hike starts by walking up the road toward Howe Spring
My five-springs hike two days ago started this way too, but I turned left toward Howe Spring in front of the hill ahead. Today I won't. - I pass a Scrub oak growing in a crevice in the rocks near Howe Spring
There must be some soil in there somewhere for the oak's roots! - From here, I get a northeast view toward the highest peaks of the New York Mountains
Instead of heading in that direction, I'll hike off to the left (north), toward the lower New York Mountains peaks that overlook the Cliff Canyon Spring area. - Near some patches of Fleabane (I think) is a bright yellow flower that I haven't seen before
It looks like a Mariposa lily, but it's not orange like the ones I usually see. Lee suggests that this is a Munz' mariposa lily (Calochortus kennedyi var. munzii): thanks for the ID! - I stop to take a closer look at the Munz' mariposa lily
The orange Mariposa lilies are really orange, and this yellow one is really yellow. I notice several of these scattered around this area. - I arrive at a fork in the old roads in the New York Mountains foothills
I follow the track to my right. - Wilderness markers delineate the end of the old road for cars and bicycles
Hikers can proceed further, of course. I've recorded a couple of possible routes on my GPS for my hike up into the New York Mountains hills ahead. It's time to decide which route I'm taking! - No human footprints are found in this sandy wash as I continue my hike up into the New York Mountains
I like this feeling. - I pass a patch of bunch grasses in the New York Mountains foothills
This reminds me of the Muhlenbergia grass that I planted in my backyard. - I continue walking up the wash and am amazed when I reach a small stream
I had no idea there might be water here, since no springs are indicated here on my maps. - A thin cascade of water flows over the rocks in this unnamed New York Mountains stream
For an unnamed desert spring, this is a substantial amount of water. Many Mojave springs that have been deemed worthy of being named are dry right now. - Further up this unnamed spring, the water flow thins out a little, but I'm still surprised to discover this
There's enough water here that it could be filtered for drinking, but I have no idea if water is here most years. - I decide to climb up out of the wash onto the ridge at my left for easier hiking
The little ribbon of green down in the wash suggests that the spring which feeds this stream is a little further up. - I take a look behind me to see that I'm quite a few feet above Pinto Valley now
I'm now at about 5875 feet elevation, more than 500 feet above where I was a while ago. Those are the Hackberry Mountains way off in the distance. - I pass through a minimalist desert garden as I hike up the rocky New York Mountains foothills
Yellow Groundsel flowers, orange Desert mallow flowers, and light-blue Delphinium flowers. Just a few of each. - I'm just high enough now that I get perspective on most of my Butcher Knife Canyon hiking route two days ago
The sandy canyon at the distant centre-left is where I descended into upper Butcher Knife Canyon, whereas the sandy canyon at the right is where I exited the canyon later. - I've been noticing a few ladybugs on my way up the rocky terrain
.. here's one. - I take an energy bar (mmm, chocolate) break behind a boulder pile; it's really windy up here at 6015 feet elevation
.. and I'm not even close to the top yet! Gee, I thought it was windy down at my campsite... And the wind is rather chilly too. - I'm high enough now to see all the way across the west end of Ivanpah Valley
Out there in the haze is the gentle curve of Cima Dome. Butcher Knife Canyon is just down below at the left. - I hike up the rather barren hill toward the overlook above the Cliff Canyon Spring area
I have another 300 feet or so of elevation gain until I reach the top there. I'm finding that it's not quite as steep as I was expecting. - The top of the hill is really windswept, but a scattering of junipers seems to live just fine up here
The wide spacing between the junipers here is likely what allowed them to survive the brush fires that passed through here in 2005. - I reach Cliff Canyon Spring Peak #1 and take in the views from just under 6500 feet
Great views. It looks like it might be possible to hike down to Cliff Canyon Spring below (not today), which I thought would be too steep (and maybe it is too steep, in places). - I ramble along the ridge above Cliff Canyon Spring a bit, and send a few text messages to let folks that all is well
Cell-phone reception up here is not bad. I decide to take shelter behind an old barberry from the strong wind that's beginning to feel cold. The noise of the wind is making it hard to hear my phone messages! - There's so much wind that I've pretty much given up trying to wear my hat; it keeps blowing off my head
It's not for nothing that I wear a hat with a neck cord to help keep it from blowing away.